The Perfect Wave Is Coming - Issue 37: Currents
▻http://nautil.us/issue/37/currents/the-perfect-wave-is-coming
Long ago I lived in Santa Cruz, California. Almost every morning I would throw on a wet suit, grab my surfboard out of the garage, and head to the rocky cliffs just a few blocks from my house. I would descend a well-worn path to the ocean below, paddle out to the break, and spend hours surrounded by kelp beds and barking sea lions, catching waves, feeling exhilarated, and floating on my board, a world away from the troubles on land. Those days are gone. I have a family now and have lived for years in the generally wave-less realms of New York City. But a few months ago I suddenly felt that old hunger again. I wanted to race out to the garage and grab a board. It was all because of a wave I saw on the Internet. And not just any wave. Head high, it came in fast, peeling left, its lip (...)