• Fashion & Land. Unravelling the Environmental Impact of Fibres

    Zoï Environment Network avec l’ami Otto Simonett

    https://zoinet.org/product/unccd-fashion-land

    This report for the United Nations Convention to Combat Desertification examines the land degradation and other environmental costs of the fashion industry. It considers the high natural resource use associated with natural fibers and the microplastic pollution of synthetics, and identifies solutions that promote environmental stewardship.

    #textile
    #fashion
    #mode
    #environnement
    #seatshop
    #fast_fashion

  • “The Regime Has Fallen!” – Compilation of texts on the latest events in Syria, as well as on the history of the Syrian revolution, its (missing) solidarity, the war and the counter-revolution…


    Table of content:

    On the Realization of Fantasy… The Day Assad Fell. A Testimony from Damascus by Omar Dayyoub(17.12.24) – p. 3

    „The future of Syria will be decided by the Syrians and nobody else” Interview with Leila Al-Shami (16.12.24) – p. 4

    From Syria to Palestine, liberation comes from below by Joseph Daher (11.12.24) – p. 4

    Free Syria’s first days: The good, the bad, an the ugly by Robin Yassin-Kassab. (10.12.24) – p.6

    Bashar al-Assad’s terror state is gone: Syria can breathe again by Karim Safieddine. (10.12.24) – p.7

    Understanding the rebellion in Syria Interview with Joseph Daher (9.12.24) – p. 7

    Left analyses of imperialism must stand against ‘campism’ by Elia J Ayoub (25.8.24) – p. 12

    Give Us Our Land Back. The Golan Heights, Greenwashing, Syria and Palestine’s Intertwined Revolutions by Banah Ghadbian (6.8.24) – p. 13

    Genocide justifying itself by genocide by Robin Yassin-Kassab (5.5.24) – p. 16

    Palestinian Assadists by Robin Yassin-Kassab (5.3.23) – p. 17

    Revolution Reborn by Leila Al Shami (26.8.23) – p. 17

    Building alternative futures in the present: the case of Syria’s communes by Leila Al Shami (18.3.21) – p. 18

    The US protests: Lessons from Syria by Leila Al Shami (6.6.20) – p. 19

    Idlib resists by Leila Al Shami (9.11.19) – p. 21

    The Syrian Quagmire by Leila Al Shami (11.3.19) – p. 21

    The ‘anti-imperialism’ of idiots by Leila Al Shami (14.4.18) – p. 22

    The act of forgiving (and forgetting) by Leila Al Shami (4.8.17) – p. 24

    Fighting on all fronts: Women’s resistance in Syria by Leila Al Shami (29.12.16) – p. 27

    Militarization and Liberation by Leila Al Shami, Robin Yassin-Kassab(2016)- p. 24

    On Islamisation by Leila Al Shami, Robin Yassin-Kassab (2016) – p. 25

    Fighting on all fronts: Women’s resistance in Syria by Leila Al Shami (29.12.16) – p.27

    Anarchism by Robin Yassin-Kassab (31.10.16) – p. 28

    London Anarchist Bookfair by Leila Al-Shami (29.10.16) – p. 29

    Challenging the Nation State in Syria by Leila Al Shami (12.5.16) – p. 29

    ‘Democratic Confederalism’ or Counter-Revolution? by Robin Yassin-Kassab (22.2.16) – p. 31

    ‘Iran the Protector’ by Robin Yassin-Kassab (16.2.16) – p. 32

    The struggle for Kobane: an example of selective solidarity by Leila Al Shami (20.10.14) – p. 33

    Mutual struggle, mutual solidarity by Leila Al Shami (29.7.14) – p. 34

    Interview with Apatris on the Syrian revolution by Leila Al Shami (28.11.13) – p. 35

    https://actforfree.noblogs.org/2025/01/03/the-regime-has-fallen-compilation-of-texts-on-the-latest-events-
    #Syrie #révolution #révolution_syrienne #histoire #guerre #compilation #textes

  • Bringing up the Bodies. The forensic anthropologists who redress migrant death in #Texas

    On an early morning this past January in Eagle Pass, Texas, a group of women were on their knees in a six-foot-deep hole, shoveling dirt into buckets. The sky was still dark, so floodlights illuminated their work. They were precise with their shovels, holding them vertically out in front of themselves and shaving away lines of soil, rather than shoving them downwards into the ground like most of us do when we dig. After they filled the buckets to the three-quarters mark with gummy clay soil, they passed the buckets up to onlookers above them to be dumped onto mounds alongside the perimeter of the hole.

    One of those standing on the edge was Kate Spradley. Dressed in army-green pants and a thin puffer jacket, she waved her arms to get the group’s attention. “What you have learned this week has prepared you for today, which is the lightning round,” she said.

    What they would be doing at top speed was exhuming human remains. The women were forensic anthropologists with Operation Identification, or OpID, which is based at Texas State University and conducts exhumations across South Texas, seeking to identify and repatriate migrants who have been improperly buried after dying while attempting to cross from Mexico into the United States. The hole where they were working was located in the Maverick County Cemetery, a grass plot the size of a city block. It was so close to the U.S.-Mexico border that you could smell the Rio Grande—at least when you stepped away from the hole, which smelled like decomposition.

    It was the last day of work; the team had exhumed fifteen bodies in the previous two weeks, and they believed there were four more still in the ground. By the end of the day, they would uncover them all, carefully lift them out, and perform “intake” procedures, which entailed removing their clothes and placing them in Ziploc bags, taking notes on any identifying features, and preparing them to be transported to the laboratory at Texas State.
    Small Counties, Big Problems

    OpID started in 2013 in response to the growing crisis of migrant death in the Texas borderlands. While people have long crossed the U.S.-Mexico border, migrant deaths in the borderlands have increased significantly since 1994. That’s the year the U.S. Border Patrol began to ramp up enforcement of common day-laborer crossing sites, an initiative that came to be known as “Prevention Through Deterrence.” Instead of deterring migration, however, the approach pushed routes into harsh, remote, and—at the time—less-patrolled areas.

    Initially, routes shifted to Arizona’s Sonoran Desert. When Tucson’s Pima County Office of the Medical Examiner, which also serves the state’s border counties, noticed the increasing migrant deaths, they developed a protocol for addressing them, including the creation of a nonprofit organization, the Colibrí Center for Human Rights, to work with families searching for missing loved ones. Since 2002, about two-thirds of the migrant remains recovered in Arizona have been identified—nearly twenty-five hundred individuals.

    Over the course of the aughts, because of changing factors in Mexico and Central America, migration routes began to pass through Texas. In 2012, nine-hundred-square-mile Brooks County, located about seventy miles north of the border, replaced the Sonoran Desert as the epicenter of migrant death. Brooks is the site of a large inland Border Patrol checkpoint, which migrants can only circumvent on foot through hot, humid ranchlands.

    Unlike in Arizona, the Texas borderlands are made up of small counties, most of which have no medical examiner. Instead, elected officials called “justices of the peace,” who have no medical training, determine cause of death and sign death certificates. Though Texas’s Code of Criminal Procedure requires inquests into all deaths of unidentified persons, it leaves ambiguity about what such an investigation must entail. One significant gray area is DNA samples, which the code states should be collected “as appropriate.” In practice, this step is often bypassed; justices were allowing county sheriffs’ offices to simply offload migrant remains to a funeral home for burial in local cemeteries, often without records of where they were interred.

    For years, as bodies were discovered in Brooks County, the county sheriff’s office sent remains to local mortuaries for burial at the county’s Sacred Heart Cemetery. This largely escaped public scrutiny until late 2012. Then, as news outlets began reporting a “surge” of unaccompanied child migrants from Central America arriving at the border, local and national attention focused on migration—including on the deaths in Brooks County. Activists and journalists began reading the Texas Code of Criminal Procedure and raising alarm about whether the correct death-investigation protocols had been followed.

    That’s where the forensic anthropologists came in.
    Sorrow in the Borderlands

    Originally from Arkansas, Kate Spradley didn’t know much about the border until, as a doctoral student in biological anthropology at the University of Tennessee, her advisor sent her to Tucson’s Pima County Office of the Medical Examiner to collect data from the remains of migrants stored there.

    One of the reasons that Pima County was able to respond effectively to migrant deaths in Arizona was because they had an anthropologist on staff, Dr. Bruce Anderson. (Medical examiners are pathologists, trained to work with tissue; anthropologists work with bone.) Spradley was impressed by Anderson’s exceptionally high identification rate, despite having limited resources and working with a population for which there was very little data. He had previously worked at a well-funded Department of Defense laboratory involved in identifying missing-in-action soldiers. “And now here he was in this lab, one person, applying the same approach of ‘let’s do everything,’” Spradley said.

    After seeing Anderson’s work, Spradley decided she wanted to work in a border state. She landed at Texas State in 2008. OpID began five years later, after a call from Robin Reineke, cofounder of the Colibrí Center for Human Rights. A woman’s nephew in his early twenties had gone missing while crossing from Mexico. The guide had told her that he had left him behind in Brooks County and that the young man had a brown plaid shirt tied around his knee. The woman had driven to Brooks County and found his death report in the sheriff’s office’s case files, but they weren’t able to tell her where the body was.

    Spradley and Lori Baker, a forensic anthropologist at Baylor University who had been working to identify migrant remains in Texas border counties since the early 2000s, contacted the county sheriff, who directed them to the funeral home. But the funeral home said they hadn’t kept records of where they buried the migrants. Hearing that, Spradley and Baker realized they were going to have to exhume a cemetery’s worth of unidentified remains.

    In May 2013, Baker and another forensic anthropologist, Krista Latham, brought a group of students to conduct the exhumation at Sacred Heart (Spradley had to teach). They started with the most recent burials in the cemetery, which were mostly wooden coffins organized in a relatively orderly pattern. But during the last few days, they began to find remains in bags tucked between coffins. “That was our biggest surprise,” Latham said. “We had to go back and re-search areas with the understanding that not everything was in a coffin.” When they returned the next year, excavating an older part of the cemetery, it was even more disorganized. “It truly was an archaeological endeavor,” she said.

    There were far more remains than the anthropologists expected. It took five visits to complete the exhumation. By the third, Spradley’s team had also gotten involved. Each time they visited, more and more people approached them with information about yet more unmarked burials.

    In one case, a groundskeeper pointed out a site where he had forgotten to replace three markers after mowing the grass. They dug there, and instead of three, there turned out to be eight sets of remains. Later, a man driving through the cemetery tipped the group off without even stopping his truck. “He just slowed down enough to be like, ‘There’s a bunch buried right here, along the street,’” Spradley said. Right where he’d indicated, they found four or five small, custom-made boxes containing unidentified remains.

    Another time, a woman approached Spradley saying, “My husband doesn’t want me to tell you this,” before continuing, “I couldn’t buy the plot next to my father because the funeral home told me that—she used the term ‘illegal’—‘illegal people were buried next to him.’” They went to the area next to where the woman’s father was buried and started to dig an exploratory trench. Immediately, they started to see depressions and soft soil—telltale signs of recent burials. They found two unidentified bodies right next to the father, as though the funeral home had simply taken advantage of the open hole to dispose of some remains. They kept digging in case there were more. In the end, they found twelve bodies.

    By now, OpID has conducted exhumations in seven counties across South Texas. Between those recoveries and direct transfers from surrounding counties, they have 495 cases, 101 of which have been identified.
    Little Scratches

    In September 2022, a TikTok video depicting carelessly buried remains at the Maverick County Cemetery went viral. “These are the migrants that drowned coming over, and they weren’t able to get them into the medical examiner in Webb County because she is full,” the narrator claimed. “So they have buried them unembalmed in these graves.”

    Though OpID had planned to conduct an exhumation at the cemetery long before the video, the video had an impact on the ground. “There’s a before-TikTok and after-TikTok here,” Molly Kaplan, Spradley’s research assistant at OpID and a PhD candidate at Texas State, told me. The before-TikTok side included some of the most careless and disorderly burials the anthropologists had ever seen. Shelby Garza, another OpID member, told me that one individual had been “just thrown”—their legs were sticking up on the east side of the wall, with the rest of their body below in an L shape. Evidently, the local funeral homes had trusted that no one was watching.

    The Maverick County exhumation was novel for OpID in other ways too. While the majority of individuals that OpID exhumes likely die of exposure to the elements, most of these people had drowned. They were also some of the freshest remains that the OpID team, who specialize in bone, had worked with. “The tissue was disintegrating in our hands,” said a master’s student named Amelia Konda.

    They also had a good estimate of how many remains had been buried, and many had possible identifications already—whether because the individual was carrying ID, a witness had been present at the time of their death, or a family member had contacted the county looking for them. Some had even been fingerprinted by Border Patrol before being buried. “We had a kind of manifest here—a known number of remains and potential ID hypotheses. We had never had either of those before,” Spradley told me.

    The twenty-six individuals buried in the cemetery came from Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Venezuela, and Syria. Some of the deceased likely planned to seek asylum. One had crossed to care for his ailing mother. The local funeral home ran out of space while waiting for the fingerprint results to come back, and so the bodies were buried without identification; now they had to be exhumed and identified, likely necessitating the use of DNA testing.

    The previous afternoon, Kaplan and Garza had stayed behind with the cemetery’s two backhoe operators, a father and son team both named Valentín, as they dug the hole from which the team would exhume the final four remains.

    Garza, who was four months pregnant at the time, had attended all of the team’s exhumations but one. She became interested in forensic anthropology as a community college student in San Antonio, after she was assigned an article about humanitarian forensic work in Iraq for a cultural anthropology class that inspired her to join the school’s forensic anthropology club. One day, Spradley came to speak to the club. When Garza transferred to Texas State, she reintroduced herself to Spradley and started to participate in OpID’s early work. Kaplan, meanwhile, grew up in Los Angeles, and came to Texas State from New York City, where she had worked with the Argentine Forensic Anthropology Team. In her role as Spradley’s research assistant, she’s responsible for many of the logistics of navigating DNA labs and government bureaucracies.

    The older Valentín, who only spoke Spanish, wore a turquoise plaid shirt, Wranglers, leather work boots, a straw hat with a feather, and a cross earring. He explained that he had grown up across the river, in Piedras Negras, Coahuila, and came to Eagle Pass when he was fourteen. He operated the backhoe, while his son stood by the hole spotting him. The younger Valentín wore laced work boots and a black zippered jacket; he had a Dallas Cowboys neck tattoo and a tiny rhinestone nose ring. Valentín Jr. yelled over the loud clanking and engine sounds to explain that when the elbow of the backhoe touched the ground, it meant the hole was six feet deep, and they should start keeping their eyes out for “decomp”—soil darkened by the microbial activity responsible for most of decomposition—and body bags.

    When anthropologists see the black decomp layer, it means they’re probably coming to a body bag or some other kind of receptacle. What remains are buried in varies: if a funeral home has handled them, they’re usually in black body bags; others are buried in cardboard boxes, the kind generally used for cremation; still others are simply wrapped in plastic sheets. As Kaplan and Garza started to see cardboard, Valentín communicated to his dad to dig more lightly. “Por encimita,” he said, making a gesture with his hands, as though one were mimicking a tarantula crawling on the other, to indicate that the bucket of the backhoe should move gently across the surface of the soil. “Little scratches,” he added.

    As the elder Valentín continued to dig, Kaplan, Garza, and the younger Valentín started to realize that the cardboard they were seeing wasn’t from the graves they were looking for but scraps from boxes exhumed during previous days. It was already 3:00 p.m., and it had taken an hour to dig the “sterile”—that is, bodyless—hole. But they were determined to find the other four remains. Extending the first pit north, they finally found the remaining graves—the ones that would belong to the “lightning round.”
    De Buenos Aires para el Mundo

    The history of humanitarian forensic anthropology starts with the Argentine Forensic Anthropology Team: “the world’s first professional war crimes exhumation group,” as Thomas Keenan and Eyal Weizman write in Mengele’s Skull.

    In March 1976, a military government seized power of Argentina in a coup d’état. During seven years of rule, they abducted and murdered some thirty-thousand citizens in what came to be known as the “dirty war.” Many were young members of leftist organizations; others were ordinary people from rural regions where authorities saw a threat of Marxist insurgency. They disappeared many of the victims without a trace, using methods such as “death flights,” in which prisoners were injected with sedatives and then dropped from planes into the ocean. In 1983, days after the election that finally replaced the military junta, the new president created a National Commission on the Disappearance of Persons. The next year, following pressure from human rights organizations, the commission brought a team of experts from the American Academy for the Advancement of Science to Argentina to offer recommendations on how best to locate, exhume, and identify the remains of the country’s disappeared.

    One of the invitees was Clyde Snow, a forensic anthropologist who had gained international recognition for identifying the remains of Nazi doctor Josef Mengele in Brazil—an investigation that, as Keenan and Weizman write, “helped consolidate the interdisciplinary process for the identification of missing people [that] has since restored the names and identities of thousands of bodies.” Snow suggested the creation of a specially trained interdisciplinary team that would conduct exhumations and identifications from start to finish, combining established practices from archaeology and biological anthropology with newer forensic approaches. But there was a problem: most Argentine archaeologists and scientists were too scared of state repression to sign up. And so, Snow’s translator, a medical student named Morris Tidball-Binz, suggested training a group of students. They met up in Snow’s hotel room, and Equipo Argentino de Antropología Forense, or the EAAF, was born.

    They started their work at the NN, or “No Name,” sectors of Buenos Aires cemeteries where activists and international human rights actors had long suspected that the remains of disappeared citizens were buried. Many of the remains belonged to people who had been killed at around the age of the students exhuming them.

    As the word disappearance suggests, the military government had insisted that no abductions or murders had taken place. “Forced disappearance is the worst of the worst—it opens a wound and allows it to fester,” said Roxanna Altholz, codirector of the International Human Rights Law Clinic at the University of California, Berkeley, who has provided legal representation to the EAAF. “Families are in anguish and are suffering until they have an answer.” The exhumations provide concrete evidence to support grieving family members’ claims. There isn’t a military government disappearing people in Texas. But when the legal protocols meant to facilitate a deceased individual’s identification aren’t followed, that lack of adherence enacts a form of disappearance. Part of the importance of OpID’s work, Kaplan told me, is the endeavor “to acknowledge that this person existed.”

    Following the success of Argentina’s team, similar teams were created in Chile, Guatemala, Peru, Uruguay, and Mexico to redress disappearances by military dictatorships and war. The teams used EAAF protocols as a blueprint for managing their own cases and exhumations and have adopted its emphasis on working closely and respectfully with family members—sometimes even allowing them to be present at exhumations to provide closure. Meanwhile, the Argentine team, now a nonprofit with an office in New York, has worked in over forty countries applying forensics to mass atrocities. The team eventually started working in the U.S.-Mexico borderlands as an extension of their Mexico program. In 2013, Spradley, Reineke, members of the EAAF, and others gathered for a meeting convened by Arizona’s Binational Migration Institute and formed a group called the Forensic Border Coalition to coordinate their operations, including applying EAAF protocols to OpID’s emerging work.

    Spradley had learned about the EAAF as an undergraduate at the University of Arkansas, where a professor took her and her class to the computer lab to learn how to use internet search engines, which were then new. The professor told the students to look up something they were interested in. Spradley searched for “forensic anthropology.” The EAAF came up. “I was like, ‘Oh my god, I didn’t know people did things like this,’” she told me. “From that moment, I always followed them.” The opportunity to work with the team, then, made her feel “starstruck.” Now, she and the EAAF are close collaborators.

    One day in 2014, they finally found the remains that had set everything in motion for OpID. Two undergraduates asked Spradley if they could volunteer for her. She told them she needed help washing clothes that had been removed from the remains brought back from Sacred Heart, which were stored in Ziploc bags. She could tell the students were disappointed with the task, but they were good sports: they took the bags outside, washed the clothes by hand, and hung them up on the laundry line.

    Spradley stayed inside and scrolled through NamUS, the United States’ missing persons database, as she often did. She passed the profile that Reineke had called her about—the man with a brown plaid shirt tied around his knee. She saw it every week. But this time, she had a brown plaid shirt fresh in her mind’s eye. The students had just hung one up on the laundry line.

    “I ran back out there and looked at all the other personal effects,” said Spradley. It was a match. They’d solved the case.
    Ascending the Stairs

    As the sun started to rise over the Maverick Cemetery, the horizon brightened with dramatic streaks of orange and fuchsia. The anthropologists began removing enough decomp to locate the final body bags. They used specific and unique terms for every aspect of their work: they “followed lines” and “chased bag”; they “gophered.” Even digging was “dirt management.”

    One crouched in a frog pose as she worked, face down over the grave with her hips turned out, one knee on each side of her work. A master’s student named Victoria Soto leaned on the edge of one of the graves and propped herself up by pushing against the opposite side of the hole with her feet. “Flexibility and planking are two key skills,” Spradley remarked. When the women got to the finer-grained work, they began using dustpans, handheld brooms, wooden tools resembling mortar and pestles. There were three types of trowels: the rectangular “margin trowel,” the diamond-shaped “pointed trowel,” and the “Japanese hoe.”

    As the hole got deeper, another master’s student, Shelly White, volunteered—as she did every day it was needed—to carve stairs. As an undergraduate, White had participated in OpID’s early searches and exhumations in Brooks County. It made an impact on her; at lunch the previous day, she had rolled up her pant leg to show the others a tattooed desert scene of wild lavender, mesquite tree, and vultures found in the area.

    The Eagle Pass exhumation was White’s first time back since she had spent five years as a contract archaeologist after graduating, working everywhere from Belize to North Dakota. “I’m really good at digging now,” she told me. In forensic work, she explained, you speed-dig because you have to exhume as many remains as possible in a given timeframe. “You’re looking for a giant plastic bag, and you’re not going to miss it.” In archaeology, you have to examine everything, as any tiny rock could be part of the history you are documenting. But going slowly, White said, means “you never end up in a six-foot hole without a way to get out.” Hence the stairs.

    When the steps were ready, Spradley, Garza, and Kaplan descended into the hole and checked the exhumations’ progress. “You should try them, Caroline,” Kaplan said to me. I did. They were impressively sturdy—there was no give, just the sense of climbing into and out of the solid earth. Later, however, the stairs would become an emotional transition zone between the dirt management that many of the anthropologists thought of as “their element” and the more somber work of intake that was still to come.

    At around eleven thirty in the morning, four of the anthropologists suited up in masks, sterile booties, and plastic aprons with long sleeves they duct-taped to nitrile gloves. They were the “dirty” people—those who would touch the body bags and the decomp surrounding them. They laid a white body bag next to the grave site. The outside of the bag has to stay “clean.” The people who have touched decomp can’t touch the bag; they can only set the body inside.

    “One, two, three,” those in the hole said together with those above. The women in PPE lifted the body and set it on the white bag in one strong and swift motion. Everyone clapped. “That was beautiful,” those watching said, cheering them on as though they were soccer teammates. The dirty team climbed out and left the hole to the clean team, who came in to zip up the bag.

    “You’re going to go up those beautiful steps,” directed Garza. They did, carrying the white-wrapped body suspended between them. But as they walked silently to the intake tent, the earlier camaraderie turned funereal.
    The Intimacy of Discovery

    After bringing up the bodies, the OpID anthropologists turned to the more intimate and emotionally challenging work of intake. It generally takes place in a tent for privacy. The structure’s synthetic material trapped the heat and exacerbated the smell. Still, they tried to stay upbeat, knowing there had hours of labor ahead of them. “I don’t even notice the smell anymore, I’m just one with everything,” said Soto.

    The group started each intake by examining the deceased individual’s mouth. Next, they removed the individual’s shirt and looked for identifying features like tattoos or scars on their torso and back. Finally, they removed their shoes, pants, underwear, and socks, in that order. “I always apologize at this part,” Konda explained to me. They photographed each step and put everything into Ziploc bags to wash back at the lab.

    Many of the anthropologists said the hardest part of the work is not handling the remains themselves but coming face-to-face with effects—the keepsakes, talismans, and handwritten lists of phone numbers that once represented the hope of a new life. During one intake, Konda grabbed a shoe and checked inside, since that’s where migrants often store important paperwork. She found an identification card. “I happened to look at the birthday. He was only two years older than me, and his birthday was around the time he probably drowned,” she told me. “He probably thought he would have made it by his birthday.” She added: “I learned that I can’t think like that because I’ll cry. Crying is OK, but I was not hydrated enough to risk crying in that hot tent!”

    At Eagle Pass, the process was messier than what anthropologists were used to. The contents of migrants’ stomachs had been released, and with the remains relatively fresh, skin was still decomposing. It stuck to the clothes in moist strips; some of the skulls had skin on one side and not on the other.

    Though their peppiness deflated, the anthropologists handled the work with tact and grace. Their composure was, in many cases, a personality trait that drew these women to OpID in the first place but also something they supported one another in learning. When Konda shared that she had had recurring nightmares over the course of the exhumation—one in which she needed to call 911 but couldn’t, and another in which decomposing bodies had come back to life—Kaplan told her solemnly, “We all have those dreams.”

    It’s the ability to push through the emotional strain of the work that, Konda said, defines the team members. “You have to be able to be compassionate, but still work through it without being immobilized. It takes a special kind of person.”
    The Final Cleanse

    Several months after the exhumation, I visited OpID’s lab at Texas State’s Forensic Anthropology Research Facility. It’s located on a forty-five-hundred-acre working ranch, down a five-mile driveway lined with oak trees and wildflowers. There are butterflies, grasshoppers, cacti, and birds, along with cows and goats—part of the university’s agricultural programs—that traipse all over the property: I found manure on the lab building’s doorstep.

    On the south side of the building, Soto and a volunteer were cleaning clothes from Eagle Pass. They scrubbed the decomp off with brushes and then started a cycle of washing: using a plunger, they stuffed each item into a bucket of water and detergent, pulled it out to scrub it more, and repeated as many times as necessary. They could tell things were clean when they stopped feeling gummy, Soto explained. Then they saturated the clothing with OdoBan to eliminate odors and hung the items up to line-dry, accompanied by a notecard with their case number.

    While the Ziploc bags of personal effects had gone into the queue to be washed, the remains that came back from exhumation had gone to the ranch’s decomposition facility, a ten-minute drive further down the road, where they were laid out in body bags under the sun. Since it’s a research facility, the area is mainly used for decomposition studies on donated bodies, which are laid out naked, unbagged; OpID keeps its remains in bags under a separate metal-framed structure that Spradley calls the “mass disaster tent.”

    Gradually, OpID members bring the bagged remains from the tent into the lab to clean them and create their forensic profiles. The first step is to pick the bones out of the body bag. Laying in the Texas sun for weeks or months, the skin and other tissue will have disintegrated. “It can be soupy,” Spradley explained. Once they’ve pulled the bones out, they put them into a steel-walled kettle—the kind you’d see in an industrial kitchen—for maceration. They clean any remaining tissue off the bones with dentistry tools and a toothbrush at a nearby lab sink. Then, in the narrow osteology lab that doubles as OpID’s office, they lay out the bones in standard anatomical position. During my visit, a skeleton brought from Brooks County laid there, its head resting on a small, square purple pillow. Spradley moved one of the upper ribs from the left to the right side, correcting a student’s mistake. Then she started to point things out to me. She estimated the skeleton as that of someone young, because the scapula and pelvis don’t completely fuse until the middle of one’s twenties.

    After completing the forensic profile, OpID’s lab manager creates a profile in NamUS and mails one of the small foot bones to the University of North Texas to be added to the FBI’s DNA database. Then they pack the remains carefully into a box and shelve them in OpID’s climate-controlled storage area to wait for their match alongside three hundred others that have yet to be identified.
    Justice in Evidence

    Forensic anthropology teams’ work has a profound social significance: it brings closure to suffering families. “[Families] cannot rest until they know what happened to their missing loved ones,” said Andrea García Borja of the International Organization for Migration’s Missing Migrants Project. “Having an answer gives them a way to move forward, to start mourning and move forward from the search, [which] is incredibly exhausting, expensive, and that really consumes so, so, so much of their lives.”

    This work also carries political and legal importance: forensic evidence can provide the grounds to hold governments and others who commit human rights violations accountable for their deeds. “Each time we retrieve the skeleton of a young person with a bullet hole in the back of the neck, it becomes more difficult to argue your way around it,” Clyde Snow told the Argentine newspaper Página/12 in 1993.

    Yet some argue that the rise of the human rights movement, of which humanitarian forensic work is part, has required major political sacrifices. In Sovereign Emergencies, a history of the growth of human rights activism in response to military governments in Latin America, Patrick William Kelly explains that organizations and activists had to “rid [themselves] of radical politics” in favor of the “politics of empathy” that became the only way to effect any change. Many of the activists and anthropologists in Texas describe their work along these lines—as a humanitarian endeavor outside of politics. In such a sharply divided state, there are pragmatic reasons to present their efforts as apolitical. Texas’s unusual bureaucracy means that migration activists, Border Patrol, law enforcement, and local officials work closely together. Until 2022, when Texas channeled all border funding into the enforcement-centric Operation Lone Star, OpID even received funding from the office of staunchly anti-immigration Governor Greg Abbott. “We can work to change the system,” said Latham, “but if we make enemies of the people working in the same system, then we can’t do our job.”

    At the same time, deaths in the borderlands are also depoliticized: media, enforcement agencies, and elected officials often frame them as unfortunate consequences of the decision to migrate or the result of smugglers who don’t value human life. It is migration advocates and humanitarian workers who argue to the contrary that the U.S. Border Patrol’s Prevention Through Deterrence strategy is a form of state violence analogous to the crimes endured by the victims forensic anthropologists have exhumed in Latin America and elsewhere. The Arizona organizations Coalición de Derechos Humanos and No More Deaths have stated that the policy “has turned the natural landscape into a lethal weapon that injures, kills, and disappears border crossers.” For her part, Kaplan said: “It’s structural violence and policy, not direct violence. But ultimately, it’s the same.”

    At the federal level, both political parties support the type of immigration enforcement that activists say is responsible for migrant death, with its focus on security rather than safe passage. Few, if any, politicians are calling for the removal of the border wall, for the abolition of the Border Patrol, or for a truth commission to investigate Prevention Through Deterrence. Those politics remain on the horizon. But the work of forensic anthropologists is future-oriented in its own way: each identification they make helps build a historical record of what has happened.

    “We can’t understand the impact of deterrence policies unless we document who dies in the desert,” said Altholz, the human rights lawyer. “OpID and the Forensic Border Coalition make it so that so many family members can find some measure of justice. And it’s justice they have delivered, not that the state has delivered.”

    https://thebaffler.com/salvos/bringing-up-the-bodies-tracey
    #USA #Mexique #mourir_aux_frontières #frontières #morts_aux_frontières #migrations #réfugiés #Etats-Unis #Eagle_Pass #OpID #identification #Operation_Identification #justice #antrhopologie_forensique

    ping @6donie

  • Les sacs de #vêtements s’entassent, la #collecte est saturée : « Avec la #fast_fashion, on va dans le mur »

    Dans la Manche, l’association Tri Tout solidaire implore les donateurs de reporter les #dépôts. La chaîne de collecte est engorgée par des tissus de piètre #qualité. La #crise est internationale : les trieurs ne trouvent plus suffisamment de débouchés pour nos habits qui vieillissent trop vite.

    À Saint-Lô, les sacs s’empilent à l’entrée de la déchèterie. C’est une montagne de vêtements, vertigineuse. Tri Tout Solidaire est débordé. “Cela fait un mois que ça dure, c’est la première fois que c’est à ce point-là”, indique Elisa Loupil qui est en charge de la communication.

    L’association s’est donc adressée à ses donateurs sur les réseaux sociaux. Elle leur demande de reporter les dons, le temps que la situation s’améliore. La société #Gebetex qui est mandatée pour enlever les sacs de vêtements ne peut pas soutenir le rythme. “On reçoit trop de #dons, calcule Elsa Loupil. Notre partenaire ne peut plus tout récupérer car il n’y a pas assez de débouchés”.

    "À Saint-Lô, j’évacue le même volume qu’avant, mais il y a beaucoup de petites associations et des trieurs qui ont arrêté leur activité. Tout part dans les bacs de récupération et ça s’accumule", explique Paul-Antoine Bourgeois, le gérant de Gebetex. La société installée à Vernon (Eure) collecte 20 000 tonnes de textiles par an dans toute la France.

    Fast fashion et #ultra-fast_fashion : toujours moins cher, toujours plus encombrant

    La plupart des structures de l’économie sociale et solidaire sont confrontées au même #engorgement. À Caen, "il y a un gros problème en ce moment avec le #textile", reconnaît la Chiffo. L’association parvient tant bien que mal à ne pas être submergée. La présidente de la Chiffo relaie toutefois que "les tonnages collectés sur l’été ont connu une croissance de 40%". Christine Juillet constate que "tous les privés du territoire qui ne trouvaient plus preneur pour leur textile s’en débarrassaient dans nos bornes de collecte."

    "La crise est internationale", explique le directeur de Fil & Terre, la recyclerie du Cotentin. Matthieu Giovannone préside aussi le réseau Tissons la Solidarité qui regroupe 70 structures de l’économie sociale et solidaire.

    "Sur l’ensemble des textiles déposés dans les points de collecte, nous en récupérons 10 %. Ce sont les vêtements de deuxième main que nous vendons dans nos magasins. Le reste est expédié dans les plateformes de tri. Une partie est recyclée, l’autre est exportée pour du #réemploi en #Afrique, mais ce marché se rétrécit. On a eu les chiffres des douanes. Les #exportations de vêtements d’occasion baissent d’année en année".

    Tee-shirts à 30 centimes

    Le gérant de Gebetex le confirme : "les marchés africains se ferment. Nos vêtements de #seconde_main sont concurrencés par le neuf chinois". Paul-Antoine Bourgeois se rendra dans les prochains jours au Togo afin de mieux cerner le problème.

    "Nous arrivons à la fin d’un modèle, estime Mathhieu Giovannone. Il faut se dire que nous n’allons plus pouvoir continuer à exporter des vêtements pour le réemploi". En France, une #éco-contribution est prélevée sur la vente de chaque vêtement neuf afin de financer la prise en charge des produits en fin de vie. "Il faut que cet argent soutienne le #recyclage du textile. Nous sommes techniquement capables de refaire de la fibre pour du tissu."

    Sur le marché du recyclage, Gebetex doit aussi affronter la concurrence venue de #Chine. "On récupère le tissu en coton. Nous le vendons à une société qui fabrique du #chiffon. Vous vous rendez compte que le torchon d’essuyage neuf chinois coûte désormais moins cher ! La société qui m’achetait des tee-shirts à 14 centimes le kilo avant l’été me les prend aujourd’hui à 4 centimes".

    Gebetex dispose aujourd’hui de son propre centre de #tri. Une nouvelle usine est actuellement en construction près de Vernon. Elle permettra de mieux répondre aux besoins, même si le métier a parfois quelque chose de décourageant. "Sur internet, des gens achètent des tee-shirts à 2 euros. C’est du jetable. Le problème quand on le récupère, c’est qu’on a trop de doutes sur la composition du tissu. C’est souvent du #synthétique. On ne peut rien en faire. Je dois payer qu’il soit transformé en combustible..."

    À Saint-Lô, pour contourner l’engorgement sans pénaliser son magasin, Tri Tout Solidaire suggère "donner des vêtements de BONNE qualité directement à la #friperie". Elsa Loupil insiste bien sur "#bonne_qualité". Depuis quelques années en effet, dans les sacs que déposent les donateurs, la proportion des habits en bon état ne va pas en s’améliorant.

    "Avant, les gens donnaient ce qu’ils ne portaient plus, observe Matthieu Giovannone. Aujourd’hui, nous sommes concurrencés par leboncoin et Vinted. Maintenant, ils nous disent : je vous le donne parce que je n’ai pas réussi à la revendre". Ce qui reste n’est pas du premier choix.

    "Il y a une #surconsommation de vêtements avec la fast fashion, constate Elsa Loupil de Tri Tout Solidaire. Et c’est de la #mauvaise_qualité". Le gérant de Gebetex abonde : "La fast fashion déséquilibre l’amont et l’aval du commerce des textiles. On les laisse prendre tout le marché sans qu’il ne se passe rien et on arrive dans le mur".

    https://france3-regions.francetvinfo.fr/normandie/calvados/caen/les-sacs-de-vetements-s-entassent-la-collecte-est-satur
    #saturation #mode #industrie_textile #débordement #qualité #consumérisme

  • Les milliardaires financent une nouvelle #université « #anti-woke »

    Au #Texas, une université « anti-woke » ouvre ses portes. L’alma mater a récolté 200 millions de dollars de dons, notamment après les événements du 7 octobre. L’Université se veut apolitique, mais le bord politique de ses importants donateurs interrogent.

    Mécontent du système académique, certains ont trouvé la parade parfaite en ouvrant leur propre université au Texas. Jusqu’ici rien de très surprenant. La particularité de cette école ? C’est une université « anti-woke ».

    Il semble que cette idée séduit puisque près de 200 millions de dollars ont déjà été récoltés, souligne le « Wall Street Journal » dimanche 13 octobre. Parmi les généreux donateurs, figurent plusieurs grosses fortunes américaines. L’argent a notamment afflué depuis les événements du 7 octobre 2023 en Israël.
    Une mission ambitieuse

    La mission de l’Université d’Austin (UATX), qui se dit apolitique, est audacieuse : elle veut favoriser le débat ouvert, la liberté académique et une « quête intrépide de la vérité », tout en mettant l’accent sur l’entrepreneuriat. En effet, de nombreux donateurs fortunés estiment que les universités sont trop progressistes. Ils se disent attirés par l’idée d’une école alternative qui encouragerait la réussite méritocratique et une multitude de points de vue.

    Harlan crow, promoteur immobilier miliardaire et contributeur de l’UATX explique : « Aujourd’hui, une grande partie de l’enseignement supérieur semble vouloir rejeter les réalisations occidentales et les réalisations des civilisations occidentales dans leur intégralité. »

    De cette volonté est donc née l’UATX qui a accueilli sa première volée de 95 élèves en septembre dernier. Les étudiants ont reçu un exemplaire de l’Odysée d’Homer lors de leur inscription.
    Le 7 octobre comme moteur

    Une vidéo publiée sur le compte Youtube de l’école met en contraste les scènes de manifestations pro-palestiniennes sur les campus américains avec un séminaire de l’UATX. La vidéo se termine avec le message : « Ils brûlent, nous construisons. »

    Il faut dire que les événements du 7 octobre ont fait les affaires de l’uni « anti-woke ». A partir de cette date, la collecte de fonds s’est emballée. Le « Wall Street Journal » explique que les donateurs estiment que la liberté d’expression s’applique de manière sélective sur les campus.

    #Niall_Ferguson, historien et co-fondateur de l’institution détaille : « Il a fallu ce qui s’est passé au lendemain du 7 octobre sur les principaux campus pour convaincre Wall Street et les gens de la Silicon Valley, qu’il y avait vraiment un problème. »

    Une collaboration avec #Elon_Musk

    Les dirigeants de #SpaceX et #Boring_Company, la société d’Elon Musk, contribuent à l’élaboration du programme d’études en ingénierie de l’école. Le patron de Tesla n’est pas le seul à être attiré par le projet. Le co-fondateur de #Paypal, #Peter_Thiel, a aussi tenu à apporter sa pierre à l’édifice.

    Si l’école se revendique apolitique, la provenance de ses gros donateurs questionne. En effet, les plus importants sont acquis à la cause républicaine et finance les campagnes des candidats du parti à l’éléphant.

    Pour l’heure, l’UATX n’est pas encore accréditée. Elle ne pourra l’être qu’après la promotion de sa première volée. Les élèves ont reçu une bourse de 130’000 dollars afin de compenser les risques pris. Plus de 40% des étudiants inscrits viennent du Texas et un tiers sont des femmes. A voir, si les étudiants seront aussi enthousiastes que les donateurs.

    https://www.blick.ch/fr/news/monde/plusieurs-millions-recoltes-les-milliardaires-financent-une-nouvelle-universit
    #USA #Etats-Unis #facs #woke #vérité #liberté_académique #Université_d'Austin (#UATX) #entrepreneuriat #progressisme #méritocratie #Harlan_Crow #ESR #enseignement_supérieur

  • #Void #Text_Editor: Open-Source Alternative to Cursor
    https://www.omgubuntu.co.uk/2024/09/void-editor-open-source-cusor-alternative

    VS Code is to modern text editors what Chromium is to browsers: a fork magnet. A slew of niche spins have emerged, each putting their own spin on Microsoft’s massively popular original. The latest to join the fray is Void. The Github page for Void describes it as an open-source alternative to Cursor. Cursor is a subscription-based, cross-platform AI-powered text editor (and #VS_Code fork) that has gained considerable attention. It offers AI-powered code completion, predictive coding, code generation, edit suggestions, and predictive cursor positioning. It’s even said to be popular with developers working on AI at companies like OpenAI […] You’re reading Void Text Editor: Open-Source Alternative to Cursor, a blog post from OMG! Ubuntu. Do not reproduce elsewhere without (...)

    #News #AI/ML

  • #Typst

    Typst est un #logiciel d’#écriture et d’#édition_scientifique créé par Martin Haug et Laurenz Mädje. Il existe sous la forme d’un éditeur collaboratif en ligne avec un accès gratuit et des fonctionnalités payantes (un peu comme #Authorea), ainsi que sous la forme d’un programme en ligne de commande, pour un usage local. On peut trouver en ligne le code et une documentation détaillée.

    Je suis frappé par la vitesse avec laquelle les deux créateurs ont transformé leur projet de fin d’études en entreprise. Le marketing est plutôt malin, on situe tout de suite Typst par rapport à #Word, #Google_Docs et #LaTeX. À noter que Pandoc a très vite développé une compatibilité avec ce nouvel outil. Typst suscite clairement de l’enthousiasme dans une communauté fatiguée par des outils mal adaptés à ses besoins. Un sentiment d’efficacité se dégage de l’ensemble du projet, et on sait combien c’est important quand il s’agit de convaincre les gens de transformer leurs pratiques. Mais il reste à tenir certaines promesses, en premier lieu sur l’accessibilité des PDF : Typst a été présenté comme une amélioration possible à TeX sur ce point, or deux ans après ce n’est toujours pas le cas.

    Je n’ai pas encore essayé l’outil. Mais pour les curieux, le mémoire de Laurenz Mädje décrit la genèse de Typst, et j’y ai relevé plusieurs éléments que je partage ci-dessous.

    Pour justifier d’investir des efforts dans la création d’un nouvel outil d’écriture et d’édition scientifique, Mädje analyse les défauts de #TeX avec des mots qui frappent juste :

    « La conception datée de TeX entrave fondamentalement l’expérience utilisateur » (p. 7) […] « la compilation est lente, l’accessibilité est mauvaise, et les possibilités de mise en page sont limitées » (p. 13).

    Les deux logiciels appelés Typst – l’éditeur en ligne et le compilateur en ligne de commande – reposent sur un langage de programmation du même nom, qui s’écrit en partie comme un langage de balisage léger, proche de #Markdown :

    « Typst, c’est à la fois un langage de balisage léger et un langage de programmation complet, réunis en une seule syntaxe, au format texte » (p. 7) […] « Intégrer stylage et programmation rend la mise en forme plus simple et plus souple » (p. 68).

    C’est donc un vrai système de #programmation_éditoriale, ce qui me rappelle #Pollen, sur lequel j’avais publié une note de veille. L’intégration entre balisage et programmation existait déjà dans l’écosystème TeX avec #LuaTeX mais l’avantage de Typst est d’avoir repris la conception du système à zéro : en théorie, cela devrait permettre de développer rapidement un catalogue de fonctionnalités modulaires, comme les paquets de TeX, sur une base plus saine.

    J’ai aussi relevé quelques concepts utiles, comme le couple balisage procédural – qui indique à l’ordinateur comment procéder – et balisage descriptif – qui décrit à l’ordinateur la structure du document. Mädje souligne que le #balisage_descriptif convient particulièrement à l’édition multiformats car il permet de changer de styles sans modifier le contenu. Il distingue trois catégories de langages de balisage descriptif, suivant qu’ils sont basés sur des tags, des macros ou des caractères. La phrase “The line between data and markup is fuzzy” (p. 16) a particulièrement retenu mon attention : elle suggère que le texte, c’est de la donnée  ; et surtout, que le balisage, c’est déjà un peu de la sérialisation.

    Enfin, j’ai relevé cet argument pro-balisage (ou #anti-WYSIWYG, comme on veut) dans la conclusion :

    « Les langages de balisage ont un avantage concret sur les systèmes de composition #WYSIWYG : ils permettent aux auteurs de définir la structure du document indépendamment de son apparence et de passer automatiquement de l’une à l’autre  ; cela donne une meilleure expérience d’écriture, avec moins de travail répétitif » (p. 71).

    https://www.arthurperret.fr/veille/2024-08-29-typst.html

    #alternative

    • l’exemple de maths me fait demander pourquoi avoir redéfini tout un langage de description de formules, celui de TeX/LaTeX étant assez complet, surtout en conservant les marques ’$’ pour délimiter les formules mathématiques ! Là on se retrouve avec un truc qui ressemble mais n’est pas pareil, je pige pas l’intérêt.

      Pour le reste ça a l’air propre et bien pensé. (ah merdre, pas de paquets debian ça ça fait chier…).

      En même temps après presque 30 ans de LaTeX, quand t’as ton jeu de macros toutes prêtes pour composer à peu près n’importe quoi, des maths aux figures Tikz, se lancer dans un nouveau truc comme ça, pfffff, ça me fatigue d’avance !

    • Rédiger la thèse avec #Zettlr

      Depuis janvier, ça y est, je suis passée en mode rédaction de la #thèse. Grande étape tout court, moment crucial aussi par rapport à l’organisation de mon travail — et notamment par rapport à la question de mon outil de travail. Je travaille avec Ubuntu (plutôt qu’avec Windows ou Mac)  ; au début de la thèse, j’ai fait ce choix sans trop savoir ce qu’il allait impliquer exactement — est-ce que j’aurais les fichiers au bon format  ? est-ce que les relectures et renvois de fichiers, d’un·e collègue à un·e autre, allaient se faire sans encombre  ? est-ce que les formats disponibles sous Ubuntu étaient appropriés pour un travail aussi long et lourd que la thèse  ?

      Comme je le disais à la fin de l’article où j’explique ces hésitations, j’ai eu quelques déconvenues  : d’un côté, je me suis vraiment attachée au fonctionnement sous Ubuntu et je n’ai plus du tout envie de repasser à Windows, de l’autre je suis forcée de constater que LibreOffice Writer, que j’utilisais pour remplacer Word, a des défaillances vraiment rédhibitoires pour la rédaction de gros fichiers de thèse. Les feuilles de style créent des bugs, les révisions de texte sont mal traduites d’un ordinateur à l’autre, bref  : pour un article ça passe, pour une thèse non. J’ai eu peur de devoir laisser tomber Ubuntu  ; et puis, finalement, non  ! Je me suis enfin penchée sur ce logiciel libre dont j’entendais parler sur Twitter depuis à peu près un an, Zettlr, et il est devenu mon outil de rédaction principal  : quelques explications donc.

      [Update février 2023] Ça, c’est ma problématique perso. Mais plus j’avance dans l’usage de Zettlr, plus je pense qu’il est vraiment une option à considérer pour tout le monde, rien à voir en fait avec utilisation ou pas d’Ubuntu. Dans l’absolu, Zettlr a des vrais avantages pour la rédaction : fluidité de l’écriture, structuration argumentative du texte, stylages, gestion des bibliographies, indexations… Il faut partir de l’idée qu’il y aura quelques bidouilles informatiques à prévoir, mais elles restent de l’ordre du raisonnable, ça vaut le coup.

      https://engagees.hypotheses.org/2948

    • Je dois déjà en avoir parlé.
      On rédige tous nos compte-rendus et documents d’analyse en markdown avec Zettlr, sur Linux et Windows. On exporte en PDF avec notre propre modèle pandoc intégré dans Zettlr. On ne connaissait pas Latex, et on s’y est mis. On est tombé sur un certain nombre de limites liées à la chaîne zettlr>pandoc>latex, mais on a un résultat qui nous permet de limiter l’usage de Word à quelques derniers bidules que markdown ne peut pas gérer, parce que c’est pas fait pour.

  • #Mastodon #alt_text
    Un témoignage très intéressant d’une personne aveugle et de sa possibilité de « voir » les images grâce à cet outil de Mastodon :

    As a Blind person i never thought i would be on social media savoring photos. But the communal Mastodon alt text game is so strong that sweet, poetic or silly descriptions abound on my timeline. Thanks to legions of people who take time to write a meaningful description of the ephemera they post, i learn so much about insects, plants, buildings, memes — all dispatches from a dimension of the world that i otherwise wouldn’t experience. If you’re wondering whether anybody reads these things: YES.

    https://mas.to/@ChanceyFleet/112906727542341272
    #cécité #réseaux_sociaux #images #légende #description #texte #description_textuelle

    • How do I make posts more accessible to blind people on Mastodon and the #Fediverse?

      Blind and partially-sighted people on Mastodon and the Fediverse use special apps called “screen readers” that read text out loud, so they can tell what is on the screen.

      There are many things that sighted people can do to make their posts more accessible to people using screen readers:

      - Add text descriptions (“Alt Texts”) describing the visuals to images and videos you’re posting. To do this, click on the “edit” or “caption” button (or write directly on top of the image on some apps) and then add a text description of what is visible. Read it to yourself afterwards, and see if you are able to imagine the important parts of the picture from what you have written. When you’ve finished, remember to click the “Apply” button if if necessary.
      - If you forget to add a description, you can go back and edit the post to add a description.
      - When posting hashtags, use CamelCase (where each word begins with a capital letter), for example #DogsOfMastodon instead of #dogsofmastodon. The capital letters allow screen reader apps to separate the words correctly and read the hashtag out loud properly. This also makes the tag easier for sighted people to read!
      - Don’t do that “sarcastic text” thing where you make fun of someone by having random letters as capitals, because random capitals prevent a screen reader from working properly.
      - If you’re sighted and you see the hashtag #Alt4Me underneath an image post, it means a disabled person wants someone to write a description of the image. Reply to the post with the tag #Alt4You and a description.
      - Also, if you’re a sighted person and you see a remarkable image that doesn’t have a descrption and no one has requested one yet, you can be be pro-active and reply with a description using the tag #Alt4You.
      – Don’t use long strings of emoji, as these sound really annoying when read out loud by screen readers. It’s okay to use emoji, it’s just the huge groups of emoji all bunched together that cause problems.
      - Don’t use deliberately obscure characters for your username, these can sound like gibberish when a screen reader reads them out (click here for an example ⧉). Standard characters work much, much better with screen readers.

      How do I remember to add descriptions to my media posts?

      There is an automatic reminder service called #PleaseCaption which will remind you by DM if you forget to add an alt text description.
      Should I be criticising people who haven’t added alt text?

      It’s important to add descriptions to images so that they’re accessible, but it’s also important not to criticise those who are unable to add alt texts due to their own disability. If someone has written #Alt4Me alongside the image that means they cannot add descriptions themselves. Don’t criticise them or comment on the lack of description, just help them out by replying with an #Alt4You post which includes your own alt text for the image.

      If there’s no #Alt4Me tag on the undescribed image, it’s still worth being polite as no one wants bad feelings generated around the topic of descriptions. You might want to just reply with a description and #Alt4You tag, and if they’re abled they will hopefully get the message that descriptions are preferred.
      How do I fit the image descriptions into my post without breaking the character limit?

      As long as you’re adding the description in the image’s own Alt Text section, it will not count towards your main post’s character limit. There is a much larger limit for descriptions, so you shouldn’t run out of room.

      https://fedi.tips/how-do-i-make-posts-more-accessible-to-blind-people-on-mastodon-and-the-fediv

  • Nos #vêtements génèrent des #microplastiques qui polluent le #fleuve #Saint-Laurent

    Les microplastiques les plus abondants dans le #fleuve_Saint-Laurent sont les #fibres_textiles de #polyester. Lorsqu’on lave une veste en tissu polaire, de minuscules fibres de plastique s’échappent vers les écosystèmes aquatiques.

    Valérie S. Langlois est professeure titulaire et titulaire de la Chaire de recherche du Canada en écotoxicogénomique et perturbation endocrinienne à l’Institut national de la recherche scientifique (INRS) ; Julien Gigault est professeur et chercheur en chimie à l’Université Laval ; Raphaël Lavoie est chercheur scientifique à Environnement et Changement climatique Canada et professeur associé à l’INRS et To Tuan Anh est technicien à l’INRS.

    Nos vêtements sont faits principalement de… matière plastique. Contrairement au coton, qui provient d’une plante, le polyester et le fameux spandex ou lycra — qui rendent les vêtements plus extensibles — ne poussent pas dans la nature. Ce sont des matières artificielles conçues à partir de plastique qui sont utilisées dans la production de textiles synthétiques.

    Lorsqu’on les lave, de minuscules fibres de plastique se détachent de nos vêtements puis passent dans les canalisations. Une fois arrivées à la station d’épuration des eaux usées, elles déjouent le processus d’élimination en raison de leur taille microscopique (d’où leur nom, les microplastiques) et se retrouvent dans nos écosystèmes aquatiques.

    Nous avons récemment mené une évaluation des microplastiques présents dans les eaux du fleuve Saint-Laurent et de son estuaire. Nous avons constaté que les microplastiques les plus abondants étaient les fibres textiles de polyester.

    Ailleurs dans le monde, on trouve des résultats similaires. Dans la mer Caspienne, par exemple, les fibres textiles étaient également le type de microplastiques le plus retrouvé dans le système digestif des poissons.

    Dans cet article, nous proposons de brosser un portrait de cette situation préoccupante.
    Pleins feux sur les microplastiques

    Les microplastiques (dont la taille varie entre l’épaisseur d’un cheveu et celle d’un cure-dent) ont été détectés partout sur la planète, notamment dans l’eau, les sédiments, le sol, l’air, les animaux et même dans les nuages et le sang humain.

    À l’échelle mondiale, on estime que près de 110 millions de tonnes de plastiques se sont accumulées dans les rivières au fil du temps, dont 12 % seraient des microplastiques et 88 % des macroplastiques (dont la taille est supérieure à l’épaisseur dudit cure-dent).

    Les microplastiques sont reconnus comme étant les produits de la dégradation des macroplastiques. On peut par exemple penser aux particules d’abrasion des pneus, aux bouteilles de plastique ou aux fibres de lavage des textiles.

    Conséquence ? Une proportion substantielle des macroplastiques d’aujourd’hui se dégradera et se transformera en microplastiques de demain.

    Les effets néfastes de l’exposition aux microplastiques sur la santé des organismes vivants ont été largement documentés. Chez l’humain, cette exposition a été associée à une perturbation des cellules, à des troubles du métabolisme, à une réponse du système immunitaire et à des effets négatifs sur la reproduction et le développement.

    L’éventail des effets répertoriés des microplastiques sur la santé n’est probablement que la pointe de l’iceberg, alors que les efforts de recherche mondiaux se poursuivent pour étudier diverses espèces.
    Des microplastiques pour souper ?

    Les microplastiques peuvent, entre autres, s’accumuler dans les poissons que l’on pêche et que l’on élève en aquaculture. Vous aurez donc deviné qu’ils finissent par se retrouver… dans nos assiettes.

    Une étude récente a démontré la présence de microplastiques de type fibres textiles synthétiques dans la chair de poissons commerciaux destinés à l’alimentation humaine. La quantité de microplastiques était également plus grande dans les poissons carnivores, c’est-à-dire ceux qui se nourrissent d’autres poissons.

    Consommer des poissons herbivores tels que le tilapia, plutôt que des poissons carnivores comme le thon, le saumon et la truite, pourrait ainsi diminuer la quantité de microplastiques dans nos repas.

    Le fleuve Saint-Laurent et son estuaire

    Le fleuve et son estuaire drainent environ 25 % de l’eau douce mondiale. Et plus de 45 millions de personnes vivent à proximité.

    En voguant sur le fleuve, la contamination par les microplastiques peut finir par atteindre l’océan Atlantique.

    Cette situation est particulièrement préoccupante. Pourquoi ? D’une part, parce qu’elle contribue à prédire de futures charges de microplastiques dans les eaux marines. Et de l’autre, parce que le fleuve abrite plusieurs millions d’animaux, d’invertébrés et de plantes.

    Dans notre étude, nous avons évalué la portion de microplastiques qui flottent dans les 40 premiers centimètres sous la surface de l’eau à 11 sites distincts du fleuve et de l’estuaire du Saint-Laurent.

    Nos résultats sont sans équivoque : les microplastiques sont présents à tous les sites d’échantillonnage. Les catégories de microplastiques les plus abondantes étaient les fibres textiles, suivies par les fragments (provenant par exemple de sacs de plastique) et les sphères (provenant entre autres des produits cosmétiques).

    Une analyse plus approfondie a permis de déterminer que les matériaux prédominants étaient le polyester, le polyéthylène, le polypropylène, le nylon et le polystyrène.

    Ces données offrent de précieuses informations quant à la répartition et au comportement des microplastiques afin de mieux préserver et gérer nos ressources en eau douce.

    Robert Charlebois chantait « Il faut laver l’eau, laver l’eau, laver l’eau »

    Poly-Mer — une petite entreprise québécoise — a conçu un filet qui s’attache derrière un canot ou un kayak afin de récolter les microplastiques qui flottent à la surface.

    En collaboration avec Stratégies Saint-Laurent — un OSBL québécois qui vise à favoriser l’implication des collectivités riveraines dans la protection, la réhabilitation et la mise en valeur du Saint-Laurent —, nous avons testé le filet de Poly-Mer et démontré qu’il pouvait bel et bien aider à filtrer les microplastiques dans l’eau.

    À hauteur d’un seul humain, d’une seule ville, que puis-je faire ?

    L’accord de Kunming-Montréal sur la biodiversité signé en 2022 (aussi connu sous le nom de COP15) a reconnu une fois de plus l’importance de travailler ensemble vers l’élimination de la pollution par le plastique planétaire.

    Et si on réduisait notre consommation de la matière plastique ? La question « en a-t-on vraiment besoin ? » n’a jamais été aussi pertinente qu’aujourd’hui, tant pour le portefeuille que pour l’environnement.

    Par exemple, la gestion municipale du compost domestique devrait éviter à tout prix l’utilisation de sacs de plastique. En effet, même les sacs étiquetés comme étant biodégradables ne se décomposent pas complètement. Il vaut mieux mettre les rebuts alimentaires directement dans notre bac de compost et le laver régulièrement.

    L’élimination appropriée des plastiques à la source est essentielle, tout comme l’investissement dans des technologies de traitement des eaux usées capables de retirer les microplastiques.

    https://theconversation.com/nos-vetements-generent-des-microplastiques-qui-polluent-le-fleuve-s

    #industrie_textile #textile #habits #mode #pollution #eau #pollution_de_l'eau #Canada #plastique

  • La #laine, un tout, de l’élevage à l’objet

    Voilà plusieurs années maintenant que je côtoie cette fibre aux qualités remarquables. Je réalise au fil de ma quête lainière, qu’effectivement, la laine est mystérieuse. Rien n’est écrit, tout s’apprend avec l’expérience et ce même lorsqu’elle est encore sur le dos du mouton.

    La laine n’est pas seulement une matière, c’est un #écosystème qui nous offre un regard singulier dans un contexte aux crises multiples.

    Une passion pour la laine

    On me pose souvent la question « d’où te vient cette passion pour la laine ? ». Durant ma formation en design #textile, j’ai eu le sentiment d’avoir une responsabilité vis-à-vis de l’anthropisation. J’ai choisi d’explorer les #fibres_naturelles, persuadée qu’elles détiennent certaines réponses pour envisager notre avenir. Lorsque j’ai appris la technique du feutre de laine, j’ai eu un véritable coup de foudre. C’est un procédé qui consiste à amalgamer par humidité et frottement les fibres. Ce n’est possible qu’avec la laine, car elle est composée d’écailles qui créent une accroche naturelle. Un véritable champ des possibles s’est ouvert à moi où je n’ai cessé d’expérimenter avec cette technique. Pendant des mois, je suis restée concentrée sur ce procédé jusqu’à me demander : Qu’est-ce que la laine ? D’où vient-elle ?

    C’est une fibre animale qui provient principalement du pelage des ovins. Elle est très complexe dans sa physionomie et possède de nombreuses propriétés. Un textile en laine ne se froisse pas ; il est naturellement respirant ; il possède la capacité d’être thermorégulateur. La laine ne retient pas les odeurs ; c’est une fibre très résiliente, qui n’absorbe pas les tâches et est ininflammable. Elle possède un fort pouvoir isolant, d’absorption de l’eau et des aptitudes au feutrage grâce aux écailles qui la composent.

    Le #mouton, une domestication du mouflon

    Le mouton quant à lui est une pure création de l’homme qui s’est faite par la domestication du mouflon il y a 10 000 ans. Sa laine était d’abord récupérée sur les buissons lors de la mue de l’animal. Il était ensuite capturé pour être peigné, puis tondu. À force de sélection, le mouflon est petit à petit devenu mouton. Aujourd’hui c’est le seul animal qui ne mue presque pas, voire pas du tout. Il est obligé d’être tondu sans quoi sa laine pousserait en continu. Le mouton ne peut donc pas vivre sans l’homme.

    On peut d’ailleurs difficilement parler de la laine sans présenter ce que j’appelle ses origines. L’éleveur ou le berger tiennent une place importante dans son environnement. Ce métier qui peut être qualifié de marginal, a tendance à être oublié dans la genèse de cette matière vivante. De nos jours, les éleveurs travaillent avec des ovins principalement dans le but de produire de la viande ou du lait. Indépendamment de ces productions, la laine pousse sur le mouton. Il faut rappeler que jusqu’à la première moitié du XXe siècle, la laine était une véritable source de revenu pour l’éleveur, parfois plus que la viande !

    L’alimentation, la conduite des bêtes, le travail avec les chiens, la reproduction, chaque choix de l’éleveur impacte le troupeau et se retrouve dans la laine. D’ailleurs, la toison est considérée comme le carnet de santé de l’animal. Dans une mèche d’une année de pousse, il est possible de lire la santé du mouton sur un an. L’endroit où la fibre se casse permet de situer la période de carence, comme une mise-bas ou des maladies. Au contraire, si l’animal est bien équilibré, les fibres sont solides, soyeuses et homogènes. Dans le jargon lainier, on dit qu’on « fait sonner la mèche ».

    Harmonie entre l’homme, l’animal et le territoire

    Au-delà de la matière laine, lorsqu’un troupeau évolue dans un secteur, il ne se contente pas que de se nourrir. Involontairement, il va défricher l’espace ; par leurs excréments, les brebis vont aussi améliorer la fertilité du sol. La gestion pastorale a toute son importance. En montagne par exemple, le pâturage d’été et d’automne minimise le risque d’avalanche. En plaine, le pâturage limite les incendies en maintenant les prairies rases. L’étude des bienfaits du pastoralisme m’amène à penser que c’est une pratique vertueuse : une véritable harmonie entre l’homme et l’animal et leur territoire.

    Lorsque je pars à la recherche de laines pour mes différents projets, je m’oriente désormais principalement vers des éleveurs qui ont une pratique de l’élevage en plein air, sans intrants chimiques. De cette façon, j’ai la certitude que la laine aura de bonnes aptitudes. C’est aussi l’assurance de travailler une matière issue d’un mode de conduite à l’écoute des brebis, de la faune et de la flore.

    Quand on pense à la laine, on évoque le mérinos qui est la fibre la plus fine. Pourtant, en France, on recense une cinquantaine de races ovines soit autant de laines différentes. Chacune d’entre elles possède les mêmes propriétés de base, mais en fonction de leur milieu d’implantation et de la génétique du mouton, les laines diffèrent. Elles ne « disent » pas la même chose, n’ont pas les mêmes potentialités donc pas les mêmes usages. Il y a des laines à rembourrage, à tapis, à vêtement de corps, à feutrer, à filer, etc. C’est un gisement d’environ 10 000 tonnes brutes dont à peine 20% sont valorisées.

    Ce manque d’intérêt pour la filière s’explique. À la suite de l’avènement des fibres synthétiques, la laine a été classée comme déchet agricole de catégorie trois, soit un déchet d’abattoir. Cette qualification est un frein dans sa valorisation, car les entreprises de négoce et de lavage ont un règlement strict à respecter. De ce fait, peu d’entreprises de lavage se sont installées en France. On trouve celui du Gévaudan en Haute-Loire et d’autres petites unités mais pas assez pour absorber les récoltes annuelles. Une autre problématique freine le développement de la filière : le prix du marché de la matière. En général, la laine est rachetée à l’éleveur entre 0,05€ à 1€ kg brut. Pas de quoi rembourser la tonte qui coûte environ 2€/brebis (une brebis porte en moyenne 1kg de laine sur le dos). Malgré cette triste réalité, plusieurs initiatives s’engagent pour renforcer la filière lainière française, pour faire en sorte que la laine soit une production à part entière.

    Mais que faire avec la laine ?

    Aussi étonnant que cela puisse paraître, on trouve la laine partout. Il y a les articles classiques tels que les chaussettes, les chapeaux en feutre de laine ou encore l’isolation de bâtiment. Mais la lainelaisse se glisse aussi dans les pianos ou sous les charentaises. Les étouffoirs des pianos sont habillés d’un feutre de laine léger pour assourdir le son des cordes. Ce son est émis grâce aux marteaux. Leurs têtes sont aussi recouvertes d’un feutre. La charentaise, pantoufle emblématique des Charentes, est à l’origine entièrement composée de laine. Aujourd’hui, les matières de la tige varient. La semelle, elle, est toujours en feutre de laine sans quoi, la charentaise ne pourrait pas s’appeler ainsi. Une seule entreprise en France est capable de produire ce feutre tissé en cinq chaînes : la maison Jules Tournier. On peut retrouver la laine dans les matelas, les couettes ou encore les vêtements. Pour ma part, je conçois et fabrique des pièces uniques d’ameublement : tapis, petits mobiliers d’assise, couvertures ou tentures. Certains de mes objets portent une empreinte singulière ; un tracé qui correspond au chemin de transhumance des brebis dont j’ai récupéré la laine. Cette cartographie me permet de replacer de façon symbolique, au centre des objets, la figure du moutonnier.

    Laine avec trait de parcours.

    Ce que je trouve passionnant avec la laine, et que je ne retrouve dans aucune autre fibre, c’est qu’elle répond à plusieurs problématiques. En la décortiquant, on dépasse sa simple qualité de matière. Dans le contexte des crises multiples que nous connaissons, la laine et les métiers qui y sont liés semblent offrir d’autres possibles. Un respect des territoires et de la biodiversité par la pratique du pastoralisme, la conservation de nombreux savoir-faire par la transformation de la laine, la création de nouveaux emplois par la structuration de la filière, la garantie de produits

    éthiques pour les usagers. Au-delà de ce que j’ai pu développer comme objet, ce que je cherche à mettre en avant, c’est ce que la laine porte en elle. Elle respecte l’environnement non pas seulement parce qu’elle provient de la brebis. Le berger ou l’éleveur, par une pratique à l’écoute de son milieu, contribue à la préservation et à l’entretien de la biodiversité qui l’environne. Il s’agit finalement de considérer le parcours des matières dans leur totalité.

    https://www.agriculture-circulaire.fr/la-laine-un-tout-de-lelevage-a-lobjet

  • Type of Russian missile that struck Kyiv children’s hospital uses western components
    https://www.ft.com/content/ef463ac9-4804-4ad7-b9a2-c113590f2f96

    Russia is making nearly eight times more #Kh-101s than before Vladimir Putin’s full-scale invasion in 2022 — and is still dependent on parts from western countries, particularly the US.

    [...] Although #sanctions have cut Russia off from some advanced components, the Kremlin’s defence sector has turned to microprocessors and other advanced technology not intended for military use.

    The transition is visible in Ukrainian analysis of a Kh-101 fired in January, which revealed 16 pieces of western-made electronics inside the missile.

    Two of the components were branded as made by Swiss-headquartered #STMicroelectronics, with the remainder made by US chipmakers including #Texas_Instruments, #Analog_Devices and #Intel.

    All of the goods are principally intended for civilian use — with some quite old. Financial Times analysis of Russian filings shows how Russian companies in 2023 were able to obtain parts identical to those used in the January Kh-101 by simply buying them on the open market and importing them via China.

    While the Russian documents state that the parts were made by western manufacturers, all were listed as having been made in China, Malaysia, the Philippines, Taiwan or Thailand.

    [...] In 2021, the year before Putin ordered the full-scale invasion, Russia produced just 56 Kh-101 missiles. After the Kremlin kept arms factories running in round-the-clock shifts, Russia produced 420 Kh-101s last year — a nearly eightfold rise, according to a report last month by the Royal United Services Institute, a British defence think-tank.

    #microprocesseur #ukraine

  • La filiera della lana “senza frontiere” dell’arco alpino
    Scienze umane e sociali

    La lana, che in passato era merce preziosa capace di stimolare e alimentare l’economia locale, ha perso negli ultimi decenni il suo valore a causa della concorrenza internazionale. Oltre a non essere utilizzata per produrre filato, la lana deve essere smaltita, secondo le norme europee, come rifiuto speciale. Non solo non produce benessere e ricchezza, ma è diventata nel tempo un enorme problema per i pastori.

    Per contrastare questo fenomeno è partito da pochi mesi, il progetto #Alptextiles, nel tentativo di ricostruire a livello transnazionale la filiera tessile, partendo proprio dalla lana. Promosso dall’archivio di Etnografia e Storia Sociale di Regione Lombardia con diversi partners europei quali scuole, musei e università di Italia, Svizzera, Austria, Germania, Francia e Slovenia, il progetto punta prima di tutto a mettere in relazione le diverse realtà legate alla filiera della lana.

    I fili prodotti in Italia, e in particolare in #Val_Camonica incontreranno quelli dell’Austria del #Montafon, sui telai di tessitura della #Valposchiavo, per creare un nuovo tessuto.

    A #Poschiavo abbiamo incontrato alcuni protagonisti del progetto “senza frontiere: #Cassiano_Luminati, direttore del #Polo_Poschiavo; #Adriana_Zanoli, artigiana e decoratrice e #Tim_Marchesi, allevatore e pastore.

    https://www.rsi.ch/rete-due/programmi/cultura/laser/La-filiera-della-lana-%E2%80%9Csenza-frontiere%E2%80%9D-dell%E2%80%99arco-alpino

    #laine #filière_laine #textile #Alpes

  • Sulla differenziata dei rifiuti tessili l’Italia è ancora all’anno zero

    Dal primo gennaio 2022 è entrato in vigore l’obbligo di raccolta separata per i vecchi vestiti che vengono gettati. A oggi sono poche le esperienze sui territori: manca una regia a livello nazionale che permetta alla filiera di strutturarsi

    Nonostante l’attenzione maniacale degli abitanti di Capannori (LU) per ridurre la produzione di rifiuti e per differenziare il più possibile le singole frazioni, una quota significativa di vecchie magliette, jeans e giacche dismessi perché troppo stretti o fuori moda continuava a sfuggire alla raccolta. “Già da tempo avevamo i cassonetti dedicati, ma da un’analisi sui materiali presenti nei sacchi ‘grigi’ è emerso che i tessili rappresentavano ancora il 15% della frazione indifferenziata”, spiega ad Altreconomia l’assessore comunale all’Ambiente, Giordano Del Chiaro-. Così abbiamo deciso di togliere i cassonetti e a luglio 2022 abbiamo avviato la raccolta porta a porta”.

    Ai cittadini viene consegnato un apposito sacco trasparente -che viene ritirato ogni due mesi- dove possono mettere indumenti, scarpe, borse, coperte, cuscini, lenzuola e tovaglie senza preoccuparsi delle loro condizioni: è possibile, infatti, conferire anche capi danneggiati o usurati. “La sperimentazione è andata bene, anche per merito dei cittadini di Capannori che sono molto sensibili a questi temi -sottolinea l’assessore-. Nel 2023 il porta a porta è diventato strutturale per questa frazione e si inserisce all’interno di un progetto più ampio: attraverso il Piano nazionale di ripresa e resilienza (Pnrr) abbiamo ottenuto un finanziamento da cinque milioni di euro per l’attivazione di centro di selezione con una capacità di trattamento di 6.500 tonnellate l’anno”.

    Qui si svolgeranno le attività di selezione dei capi, separando quelli rovinati da quelli in buone condizioni, i maglioni di lana dai jeans, i vestiti invernali da quelli estivi e così via con l’obiettivo di incanalarli separatamente lungo la filiera più corretta: il riutilizzo (ad esempio la commercializzazione sul mercato second hand), il riciclo (il recupero della fibra per produrre nuovi capi o l’utilizzo del materiale tessile di scarto per realizzare imbottiture) o, in quota residua, per tutto quello che non è possibile utilizzare altrimenti, lo smaltimento.

    Quella di Capannori è una delle poche novità che si sono registrate nel settore da quando, il primo gennaio 2022, è entrato in vigore l’obbligo di raccolta differenziata dei rifiuti tessili in base a quanto previsto dal decreto legislativo 116/2020 con cui l’Italia ha anticipato di tre anni l’attuazione di uno dei decreti contenuti nel “Pacchetto di direttive sull’economia circolare” adottato dall’Unione europea nel 2018. “Non si sta facendo nulla per organizzare la raccolta differenziata a livello nazionale, che però dovrà tassativamente entrare in vigore nel 2025 in base a quanto previsto dalle normative europee -commenta Rossano Ercolini, presidente della Rete Zero Waste Europe-. Da un punto di vista operativo sono stati due anni persi, anche se alcune realtà hanno iniziato a porsi il problema e a sperimentare modelli”.

    “L’assenza di una norma di riferimento pone tutti in una situazione di attesa che non aiuta le aziende e ovviamente neanche l’ambiente” – Giancarlo Dezio

    A fronte dell’obbligo di avvio della raccolta differenziata non sono stati approvati i provvedimenti necessari a strutturare la filiera. Aziende e consorzi sono quindi ancora in fase di attesa: “Abbiamo sollecitato i ministeri interessati a redigere un testo attorno al quale potersi confrontare per rendere a tutti gli effetti operativa la gestione dei prodotti tessili -spiega ad Altreconomia Giancarlo Dezio, direttore generale di Ecotessili, consorzio nato nel 2021 per iniziativa di Federdistribuzione-. L’assenza di una norma di riferimento pone tutti in una situazione di attesa che non aiuta le aziende e ovviamente neanche l’ambiente”. Oltre a Ecotessili, in questi anni hanno preso vita anche altre realtà, tra cui Re.Crea, coordinato dalla Camera nazionale della moda, Cobat Tessile e Retex.Green, lanciato dal Sistema moda Italia (Smi) ed Erion.

    A questo si aggiunge il fatto che solo a inizio luglio 2023 la Commissione europea ha pubblicato la sua proposta per la revisione della Direttiva quadro sui rifiuti (tra cui i tessili) che comprende anche la creazione di sistemi di Responsabilità estesa del produttore (Erp) obbligatori e armonizzati tra tutti i Paesi dell’Unione: sul modello di quanto avviene, ad esempio, per i rifiuti elettrici ed elettronici, i marchi di moda e i produttori tessili saranno tenuti a pagare un contributo per ogni capo immesso sul mercato, che andrà poi a coprire i costi di raccolta, selezione, riutilizzo e riciclo. Una proposta accolta con favore dalla Federazione europea di organizzazioni ambientaliste (European environmental bureau) che invita la Commissione a fissare obiettivi ambiziosi: “L’Ue si è impegnata a fermare la fast fashion. Ora è giunto il momento di una politica veramente trasformativa, che stabilisca contributi adeguati -ha dichiarato Emily Macintosh, senior policy officer della federazione per il settore tessile-. Non possiamo regalare ai brand un lasciapassare per continuare a produrre in eccesso capi di bassa qualità progettati per una breve durata di vita e aspettarci di riciclare quantità sempre maggiori di rifiuti tessili”. I tempi per l’approvazione della direttiva però si prospettano lunghi, anche alla luce delle prossime elezioni per il rinnovo del Parlamento europeo del giugno 2024.

    Tra chi guarda con attenzione a quello che succede a Bruxelles ci sono anche le tante realtà del mondo della cooperazione sociale cui, da anni, molti Comuni italiani o municipalizzate affidano la raccolta di questa frazione. “Quaranta realtà che aderiscono a Confcooperative Federsolidarietà raccolgono circa 50mila tonnellate di rifiuti tessili, quasi un terzo del totale a livello nazionale. Sono presenti in 11 Regioni e attraverso questa attività creano occupazione per oltre cinquemila lavoratori, di cui 1.500 persone con disabilità o soggetti svantaggiati -spiega ad Altreconomia il presidente Stefano Granata-. Abbiamo preso consapevolezza della nostra forza e delle competenze accumulate in questi anni sui tanti territori in cui siamo presenti: abbiamo una rete capillare e diffusa, ma quello che ci manca è dare una risposta più strutturata alle fasi successive della filiera.

    Sono 50mila le tonnellate di rifiuti tessili che raccolgono le quaranta realtà aderenti a Confcooperative Federsolidarietà, circa un terzo del totale a livello nazionale. Sono presenti in 11 Regioni e attraverso questa attività creano occupazione per oltre cinquemila lavoratori, di cui 1.500 persone con disabilità o soggetti svantaggiati

    Per questo vogliamo crescere ancora, anche per creare più posti di lavoro, e nel corso del 2024 daremo vita a un’associazione per riunire tutte le nostre realtà attive nel settore”. Tra quelle che hanno iniziato a tracciare un percorso virtuoso lungo i passaggi successivi alla raccolta c’è Vestisolidale, una delle nove cooperative della rete Riuse attiva in circa 400 Comuni delle province di Milano, Varese, Monza e Brianza, Bergamo e Brescia che nel corso del 2022 ha raccolto e avviato al recupero circa 13mila tonnellate di rifiuti tessili. “A oggi il sistema è stato incentrato sulla presenza di cassonetti dedicati all’abbigliamento in buone condizioni, mentre tutto il resto spesso finiva nell’indifferenziata -spiega Matteo Lovatti, presidente di Vestisolidale-. In un anno noi mediamente raccogliamo 4,5 chili per abitante, ma le stime parlano di un immesso al consumo di 20 chili all’anno per persona. La sfida è riuscire a intercettare quella differenza”.

    Ma la raccolta non è tutto. Già da alcuni anni, infatti, Vestisolidale gestisce negozi per la vendita diretta di capi second hand e nel 2024 metterà in funzione anche uno stabilimento con sede a Rho, Comune alle porte di Milano, per la selezione e la preparazione del materiale tessile per le successive fasi di lavorazione: “L’impianto è stato autorizzato per trattare 20mila tonnellate di materiale all’anno e a regime contiamo di assumere una trentina di dipendenti”, aggiunge Lovatti. L’occhio esperto dei selezionatori permette di andare a dividere quei capi che possono essere re-immessi in commercio da quelli che invece devono essere destinati al riciclo e, più nel dettaglio, di separare le singole fibre che possono così essere trasformate in “materia prima-seconda” per la produzione di nuovi capi in cotone, lana o cachemire rigenerato.

    “Focalizzarsi sulla gestione dei rifiuti e non su come e quanto si produce significa ignorare il vero problema. La circolarità rischia di essere una scappatoia” – Dario Casalini

    “In Italia è presente una rete molto forte di realtà che hanno una grande esperienza e professionalità in merito al riutilizzo della frazione tessile -sottolinea Raffaele Guzzon, presidente del consorzio Erion, che riunisce realtà come Amazon, Artsana e Save the Duck-. Ma quello su cui vogliamo puntare è garantire la corretta gestione delle frazioni non riutilizzabili e che non possono essere re-immesse sul mercato del second hand: guardiamo ad esempio alle aziende che si stanno specializzando nel riutilizzo degli scarti tessili per produrre imbottiture o materiali fonoassorbenti”.

    Chi invece prova a fare un passo indietro e osservare la questione della gestione dei rifiuti tessili nel suo complesso è Dario Casalini, già docente di Diritto pubblico, oggi amministratore delegato del marchio di maglieria Oscalito 1936 e fondatore della rete Slow Fiber, una realtà che vuole essere un’alternativa al fenomeno dilagante del fast fashion. “Preoccuparsi solo dell’ultima fase di vita dei capi d’abbigliamento è come curare un mal di testa senza intervenire sulle cause -spiega-. Focalizzarsi sulla gestione dei rifiuti tessili e non su come e quanto si produce significa ignorare il vero problema. Tutta l’attenzione che, anche a livello europeo, si sta mettendo sulla circolarità è positiva, ma c’è il rischio che possa essere una scappatoia per consentire al sistema della moda di continuare a operare come sta facendo ora”.

    https://altreconomia.it/sulla-differenziata-dei-rifiuti-tessili-litalia-e-ancora-allanno-zero
    #déchets #déchets_textiles #recyclage #textiles #industrie_textiles #Italie #habits #sélection #tri #ré-usage #loi

  • A la frontière entre les Etats-Unis et le Mexique, des arrivées de migrants en forte hausse
    https://www.lemonde.fr/international/article/2023/12/29/a-la-frontiere-entre-les-etats-unis-et-le-mexique-des-arrivees-de-migrants-e

    A la frontière entre les Etats-Unis et le Mexique, des arrivées de migrants en forte hausse
    Par Anne Vigna (Mexico, correspondante)
    Lors de leur venue à Mexico pour une réunion consacrée à la question migratoire, mercredi 27 décembre, les membres de la délégation américaine – composée du chef de la diplomatie, Antony Blinken, et du secrétaire à la sécurité nationale, Alejandro Mayorkas – arboraient un grand sourire. C’est du moins ce que montrent les photos de leur rencontre avec le président mexicain, Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador (dit « AMLO »). Mais aucun communiqué n’a été diffusé à l’issue de la discussion qui a duré plus de deux heures. « AMLO » comme la ministre des affaires étrangères mexicaine, Alicia Barcen, ont répété que la rencontre avait été « très positive » et qu’elle allait désormais se reproduire mensuellement, en invitant d’autres pays d’Amérique centrale, eux aussi concernés par le phénomène migratoire.
    Le président mexicain a précisé, lors de sa « matinale », son intervention télévisée quotidienne, jeudi 28 décembre que « les Etats-Unis ont accepté de rouvrir leurs ponts frontaliers », qui avaient été fermés à la mi-décembre devant l’afflux de migrants. « La relation avec nos voisins est fondamentale : nous devons en prendre soin et nous devons également prendre soin des migrants. Nous devons veiller à ce qu’il n’y ait pas d’abus, d’enlèvements ou d’accidents en cours de route. » Cette communication cache mal une situation de plus en plus dramatique à la frontière entre les deux pays : selon les chiffres communiqués par la police aux frontières américaine, près de 10 000 personnes sont arrivées chaque jour à la frontière sud des Etats-Unis en décembre. D’octobre 2022 à septembre 2023, 3,2 millions de migrants se sont rendus aux autorités américaines contre 2,7 millions lors de la précédente période, selon le département des douanes américain.
    D’autre part, une nouvelle caravane de près de 10 000 migrants est partie à pied du Chiapas, dans le sud du Mexique, le 25 décembre, et devrait arriver dans trois semaines à Mexico. L’image de cette colonne d’hommes et de femmes, reproduite dans de nombreux médias américains, a sonné l’alarme dans les Etats du sud des Etats-Unis. Le Texas a renforcé la protection de sa frontière et a affrété des bus pour emmener les migrants vers d’autres Etats du pays, en particulier ceux dirigés par les démocrates, comme New York et la Californie.« Ces gens fuient des situations extrêmement violentes, et cela va continuer. On ne voit toujours aucune stratégie américaine se dessiner, si ce n’est une réponse à l’urgence. Le Mexique, au contraire, a mis au point plusieurs programmes en Amérique centrale. Même si ce n’est pas parfait, c’est un début », estime la coordinatrice de l’organisation Agenda Migrante, Eunice Rendon. Face aux pressions américaines, le Mexique risque de renforcer encore les contrôles et d’augmenter les expulsions, obligeant les migrants à prendre toujours plus de risques pour parvenir à destination.

    #Covid-19#migrant#migration#etatsunis#mexique#texas#californie#newyork#frontiere#migrationirreguliere#ameriquecentrale#sante#expulsion#politiquemigratoire

  • I grandi marchi della fast fashion non vogliono rinunciare al petrolio russo

    Nel 2023 le due principali società produttrici di poliestere, l’indiana #Reliance industries e la cinese #Hengli group, hanno continuato a utilizzare il greggio di Mosca. La maggior parte dei brand -da #Shein a #H&M, passando per #Benetton- chiude un occhio o promette impegni generici. Il dettagliato report di #Changing_markets.

    Quest’anno i principali produttori globali di poliestere, la fibra tessile di origine sintetica derivata dal petrolio, non solo non hanno interrotto i propri legami con la Russia ma al contrario hanno incrementato gli acquisti della materia prima fondamentale per il loro business. È quanto emerge da “#Crude_Couture”, l’inchiesta realizzata da Changing markets foundation pubblicata il 21 dicembre, a un anno di distanza dalla precedente “Dressed to kill” che aveva svelato i legami segreti tra i principali marchi della moda e il petrolio di Mosca.

    “Quest’indagine -si legge nell’introduzione- evidenzia il ruolo fondamentale svolto dall’industria della moda nel perpetuare la dipendenza dai combustibili fossili e segnala una preoccupante mancanza di azione per rompere i legami con il petrolio russo”. Un’inazione, sottolineano i ricercatori, che sta indirettamente finanziando la guerra in Ucraina. E non si tratta di un contributo di poco conto: le fibre sintetiche, infatti, pesano per il 69% sulla produzione di fibre e il poliestere è di gran lunga il più utilizzato, lo si può trovare infatti nel 55% dei prodotti tessili attualmente in circolazione. Se non ci sarà una netta inversione di tendenza, si stima che entro il 2030 quasi tre quarti di tutti i prodotti tessili verranno realizzati a partire da combustibili fossili.

    Il poliestere è fondamentale per l’esistenza dell’industria del fast fashion, e ancora di più per i marchi di moda ultraveloce come Shein: un’inchiesta pubblicata da Bloomberg ha mostrato che il 95% dei capi prodotti dal marchio di moda cinese conteneva materiali sintetici mentre per brand come #Pretty_Little_Thing, #Misguided e #Boohoo la percentuale era dell’83-89%.

    Al centro delle due inchieste realizzate da Changing markets ci sono due importanti produttori di questo materiale: l’indiana #Reliance_industries (con una capacità produttiva stimata in 2,5 milioni di tonnellate all’anno) e la cinese #Hengli_group. I filati e i tessuti che escono dai loro stabilimenti vengono venduti ai produttori di abbigliamento di tutto il mondo che, a loro volta, li utilizzano per confezionare magliette, pantaloni, cappotti, scarpe e altri accessori per importanti brand. Su 50 marchi presi in esame in “Dressed to kill” 39 erano direttamente o indirettamente collegati alle catene di fornitura di Hengli group or Reliance industries, tra questi figurano #H&M, #Inditex (multinazionale spagnola proprietaria, tra gli altri, di #Bershka e #Zara), #Adidas, #Uniqlo e #Benetton.

    Anche dopo la pubblicazione di “Dressed to kill”, Reliance e Hengli hanno continuato ad acquistare petrolio russo. A marzo 2023 l’India ha acquistato da Mosca la quantità record di 51,5 milioni di barili di greggio: “Insieme a Nayara Energya, la principale compagnia petrolifera indiana, Reliance industries ha rappresentato più della metà (52%) delle importazioni totali”, si legge nell’inchiesta. In crescita anche le importazioni cinesi (+11,7% rispetto all’anno precedente). “Nel maggio 2023, #Hengli_Petrochemical ha ricevuto 6,44 milioni di barili di greggio russo, come riportato dai dati di tracciamento delle navi dell’agenzia Reuters -scrivono gli autori del report-. Queste tendenze rivelano il persistente legame tra le aziende di moda che si riforniscono da questi produttori di poliestere e il petrolio russo”. Oltre alla violazione delle sanzioni imposte a Mosca da diversi governi, compresi quello degli Stati Uniti e dell’Unione europea.

    I ricercatori di Changing markets hanno quindi deciso di tracciare un bilancio e hanno inviato un questionario a 43 brand (compresi i 39 già presi in esame in “Dressed to kill”) per verificare se avessero interrotto i rapporti con Reliance ed Hengli. Appena 18 hanno risposto alle domande e solo due aziende (Esprit e G Star Raw) hanno dichiarato di aver tagliato i ponti con i due produttori. Una terza (Hugo Boss) si è impegnata a eliminare gradualmente il poliestere e il nylon: “Le altre rimangono in silenzio o minimizzano l’urgenza della crisi ucraina con vaghe promesse di cambiamento a diversi anni di distanza o con false soluzioni, come il passaggio al poliestere riciclato, per lo più da bottiglie di plastica”, si legge nel report.

    Tre società (H&M, C&A e Inditex) hanno risposto al questionario “distogliendo l’attenzione” dal legame con il petrolio russo per enfatizzare future strategie di transizione dal poliestere vergine a quello riciclato (da bottiglie di plastica) o verso materiali di nuova generazione. H&M ad esempio ha dichiarato la propria intenzione di non approvvigionarsi più di poliestere vergine entro il 2025 “tuttavia non ha chiarito le sue attuali pratiche per quanto riguarda i fornitori di poliestere legati al petrolio russo”. Analogamente, la catena olandese C&A afferma di volersi concentrare su materiali riciclati e di nuova generazione senza fornire informazioni sui legami con i fornitori oggetto dell’inchiesta. Nemmeno la spagnola Inditex ha risposto alle domande in merito a Reliance ed Hengli. Anche l’italiana Benetton avrebbe fornito risposte insufficienti o generiche: “Si è impegnata vagamente a una transizione verso materiali ‘preferiti’ -scrivono gli autori dell’inchiesta-, senza specificare però l’approccio ai materiali sintetici”.

    Tra quanti non hanno risposto al questionario c’è proprio Shein ma i suoi legami con il produttore indiano di poliestere sono evidenti: a maggio 2023 infatti le due società hanno sottoscritto un accordo in base al quale il colosso può utilizzare le capacità di approvvigionamento, l’infrastruttura logistica e l’ampia rete di negozi fisici e online di Reliance Retail, segnando così il ritorno di Shein in India dopo una pausa di tre anni. “Poiché il poliestere rappresenta il 64% del mix di materiali del brand e il 95,2% dell’abbigliamento di contiene plastica vergine, l’imminente collaborazione con Reliance suggerisce che una parte significativa delle circa 10mila novità giornaliere di Shein potrebbe in futuro essere derivata da prodotti di plastica vergine prodotti grazie a petrolio russo”, conclude il report.

    https://altreconomia.it/i-grandi-marchi-della-fast-fashion-non-vogliono-rinunciare-al-petrolio-

    #Russie #pétrole #fast-fashion #mode #polyester #rapport #textile #industrie_textile #industrie_de_la_mode

    • Fossil Fashion

      Today’s fashion industry has become synonymous with overconsumption, a snowballing waste crisis, widespread pollution and the exploitation of workers in global supply chains. What is less well known is that the insatiable fast fashion business model is enabled by cheap synthetic fibres, which are produced from fossil fuels, mostly oil and gas. Polyester, the darling of the fast fashion industry, is found in over half of all textiles and production is projected to skyrocket in the future. Our campaign exposes the clear correlation between the growth of synthetic fibres and the fast fashion industry – one cannot exist without the other. The campaign calls for prompt, radical legislative action to slow-down the fashion industry and decouple it from fossil fuels.

      Crude Couture: Fashion brands’ continued links to Russian oil

      December 2023

      Last year, our groundbreaking ‘Dressed to Kill’ investigation delved deep into polyester supply chains, unveiling hidden ties between major global fashion brands and Russian oil. We exposed Russia’s pivotal role as a primary oil supplier for key polyester producers India’s Reliance Industries and China’s Hengli Group, which were found to be supplying fibre for the apparel production of numerous fashion brands.

      Now, a year later, we returned to the fashion companies to evaluate if they have severed ties with these suppliers. Shockingly, our latest report reveals an alarming trend: the two leading polyester producers are increasingly reliant on war-tainted Russian oil in 2023. Despite prior warnings about these ties, major fashion brands continue to turn a blind eye, profiting from cheap synthetics, while Ukraine suffers. Only two companies – Esprit and G Star Raw – said they cut ties with the two polyester producers, while Hugo Boss committed to phase out polyester and nylon. The others remain silent or downplay the urgency of the Ukrainian crisis with vague promises of change several years ahead or with false solutions, such as switching to recycled polyester – mostly from plastic bottles. This investigation sheds light on the fashion industry’s persistent dependance on fossil fuel and their lack of action when it comes to climate change and fossil fuel phase out.

      https://changingmarkets.org/portfolio/fossil-fashion

  • Im Uber: Ex-Botschaftergattin Shawne Fielding zusammengeschlagen
    https://www.berliner-zeitung.de/panorama/im-uber-ex-botschafter-gattin-shawne-fielding-zusammengeschlagen-li


    Glamour-Paar der Berliner 2000er: Shawne Fielding und Thomas Borer, hier im Jahr 2007 beim Wiener Opernball.

    Es trifft die Reichen und Schönen nur, wenn sie unmittelbar von Armut und Ausbeutung profitiren wollen. Es gibt gute Gründe dafür, dass die Angehörigen der Oberklassen eigene Limousinen und Chauffeure haben. Jetzt wissen ein paar mehr : Mit Uber fahren ist gefährlich, weil man nie weiß, wer wirklich am Steuer sitzt.

    26.12.2023 Marcus Weingärtner - Shawne Fielding, die Ex-Frau des ehemaligen Schweizer Botschafters Thomas Borer, wurde in Dallas Opfer einer Gewalttat.

    Berlinerinnen und Berlinern ist Shawne Fielding ein Begriff: In den 2000ern brachten der Schweizer Botschafter Thomas Borer und seine Ehefrau Fielding den lang vermissten Glamour in die deutsche Hauptstadt. Sie unterhielten Berlin mit ihren Auftritten und dem einen oder anderen Skandälchen um angebliche Affären und Abnehmpülverchen.
    Opfer einer Gewalttat

    Shawne Fielding und Thomas Borer waren von 1999 bis 2014 verheiratet. Die beiden haben zwei gemeinsame Kinder. Danach war die gebürtige Texanerin sieben Jahre mit dem Eishockey-Spieler Patrick Schöpf (56) zusammen. Das Paar nahm 2018 an der Sendung „Sommerhaus der Stars“ teil. Nun wurde Fielding in ihrer Heimat Dallas/Texas Opfer einer Gewalttat, wie die Bild-Zeitung berichtete.

    Offenbar wurde Fielding während einer Uber-Fahrt in Dallas angegriffen und geschlagen, wie die Ex-Botschaftergattin in den sozialen Medien mitteilte:

    „Heiligabend mit der Unterstützung meiner Familie und meiner Freunde. Ich wurde gestern in einem Uber brutal angegriffen und für tot geglaubt zurückgelassen. Jeder Knöchel an meiner rechten Hand wurde genäht. Ich bin dankbar für das Weihnachtswunder, am Leben zu sein. Bitte sag den Leuten jeden Tag, wie sehr du sie liebst. Danke, Weihnachtsmann, was auch immer mir Kraft gab, zu kämpfen. Das geschah am helllichten Tag – ich hatte keine Einkaufstaschen, war aber alleine. #neveragain

    #USA #Texas #Dallas #Uber #Kriminalität

  • Marine pollution, a Tunisian scourge: Jeans industries destroy the marine ecosystem in the #Ksibet_El-Mediouni Bay

    The Made in Tunisia clothes industry for the European market consumes large amounts of water and pollutes Tunisia’s coastline. In Ksibet El Mediouni, the population is paying the price of the environmental cost of #fast_fashion.

    Behind the downtown promontory, blue-and-white tourist villas and monuments celebrating former Tunisian President Habib Bourguiba, born in Monastir, give way to gray warehouses. Made in Tunisia clothes for export are cut, sewn, and packed inside these hangars and garages, many undeclared, by a labor force mostly of women, who are paid an average of 600 dinars, as confirmed by the latest social agreement signed with the main trade union, the Tunisian General Labour Union (UGTT), obtained by inkyfada.

    The triangle of death”

    The clothes are then shipped to the European Union, the primary export market. While most Tunisians can afford to buy second-hand clothes on the so-called “fripes” markets, 82% of Tunisian textile production leaves the country, according to the latest figures published in a report by the NGO Avocats Sans Frontières. Tunisia, like Morocco and Egypt, are attractive destinations for textile manufacturing multinationals due to their geographical proximity to the European market.

    Here, the tourist beaches quickly become a long, muddy marine expanse. The road that leads to the working-class neighborhoods south of Monastir, known as a hub of the textile industry - Khniss, Ksibet, Lamta, Ksar Hellal, Moknine - is paradoxically called Boulevard de l’Environnement (Environment Boulevard).

    This street name can be found in every major city in the country as a symbol of the ’authoritarian environmentalism of Ben Ali’s 1990s Tunisia’ - as researcher Jamie Furniss called it - redeeming the image of dictatorship ’by appealing to strategic hot-button issues in the eyes of the “West.”’

    After rolling up his pants, he dips his feet into the dirty water and climbs into a small wooden boat. ’Nowadays, to find even a tiny fish, we must move away from the coast.’

    ’Sadok is one of the last small fishermen who still dares to enter these waters,’ confirms Yassine, a history professor in the city’s public school, watching him from the main road to cope with the strong smell.

    Passers-by of Boulevard de l’Environnement agree: the Ksibet El-Mediouni Bay died ‘because of an abnormal concentration of textile companies in a few kilometers’, they say, polluting the seawater where the population used to bathe in summer.

    The region is home to five factory clusters. ’Officially, there are 45 in all, but there are illegal ones that we cannot count or even notice. They are often garages or warehouses without signs,’ confirms Mounir Hassine, head of Monastir’s Tunisian Forum for Economic and Social Rights.

    This is how the relocation of textile industries works: the big brands found in French, Italian, Spanish, and German shops relocate to Tunisia to cut costs. ’Then some local companies outsource production to other smaller, often undeclared companies to reduce costs and be more competitive,’ explains Habib Hazemi, President of the General Federation of Textiles, Clothing, Footwear, and Leather in the offices of the trade union UGTT.

    According to Hassine from the Tunisian Forum for Economic and Social Rights (FTDES), ‘undeclared factories often dig wells to access groundwater and end up polluting the Bay by discharging wastewater directly into the sea’.

    The public office responsible for water treatment (Office National de l’Assainissement, ONAS) ’fails to treat all this wastewater,’ he adds, so State and private parties bounce responsibilities off each other’. ’The result is that nothing natural is left here,’ Yassine keeps repeating.

    The unheard call of civil society

    Fatma Ben Amor, 28, has learned the meaning of pollution by looking at it through her window and listening to the stories of her grandparents, born and raised in the small town of Ksibet El Mediouni. ’ They often tell me that people used to bathe and go fishing here. I never knew the ’living’ beach,’ says this local activist.

    After the revolution, her city became the center of a wave of protests in 2013 by the population against ’an ecological and health disaster,’ it was written on the protesters’ placards. Nevertheless, the protests yielded no results, and marine pollution has continued.

    Founded in 2014, the Association for the Protection of the Environment in Ksibet el Mediouni (APEK) monitors the level of marine pollution in the so-called ’triangle of death.’ Fatma tries to raise awareness in the local community: ’We began with a common reflection on resource management in the region and the idea of reclaiming our bay. Here, youth are used to the smells, the waste, the dirty sea.’

    Under one of the bridges on Boulevard de l’Environnement runs one of the few rivers where there is still water. That water, however, ‘gathers effluent from the area’s industries’, the activists complain. ’The water coming from Oued el-Melah, where all the factories unload, pollutes the sea,’ she explains by pointing to the oued.

    According to the latest report by Avocats Sans Frontières (ASF) and FTDES in August 2023, one of the leading causes of marine pollution in Monastir governorate would be the denim washing process, a practice used in the dyeing of jeans.

    The ASF research explains that the jeans sector is characterized by technical processes involving chemicals - such as acetic acid used for washing, several chemical detergents and bleaching products, or hydrogen peroxide - and massive water consumption in a country suffering from water stress.

    During the period of 2011-2022, Tunisia has ratified important international texts that will strengthen and enrich Tunisian national law in terms of pollution control, environmental security, and sustainable development. ’ Although the regulations governing environmental protection and the use of water resources are strict, the authorities in charge of controls and prosecutions are outdated and unable to deal with the infringements,’ the ASF report confirms.

    According to both civil society organizations, there are mainly two sources of pollution in Ksibet Bay: polluting industries discharging chemicals directly into the seawater and the Office de l’Assainissement (ONAS) , ’which should be responsible for treating household wastewater, but mainly manages wastewater from factories discharging, and then throw them into the sea,’ Fatma Ben Amor explains.

    ’Take, for example, the ONAS plant at Ouad Souk, in Ksibet Bay. Created in 1992, it has a treatment capacity of 1,680 cubic meters per day, with a population more or less adapted to this capacity. It receives more than 9,000 cubic meters daily on average,’ Mounir Hassine confirms.

    ONAS did not respond to our interview requests. The Tunisian Textile and Clothing Federation (FTTH), representing part of the sector’s employers, assures that ‘the large companies in the region have all the necessary certifications and now use a closed cycle that allows water to be reused.’ The FTTH adds that the sector is taking steps towards the energy transition and respect for the environment.

    UTICA Monastir, the other branch of the employers’ association, has also confirmed this information. While a system of certifications and environmental audits has been put in place to monitor the work of large companies, ‘the underground part of the production chain escapes the rules,’ admits one entrepreneur anonymously.

    This pair of jeans is water’

    ONAS finds itself treating more water than the treatment stations’ capacities because, within a few decades, the Monastir region has radically changed its economic and resource management model. A few kilometers from the towns on the coast, roads run through olive groves that recall the region’s agricultural past.

    But today, agriculture and fishing are also industrialized: the governorate of Monastir produced almost 20,000 tonnes of olive oil by 2020. With 14 aquaculture projects far from the coast, the region ranks first in fish production, with an estimated output of between 17,000 and 18,000 tonnes by 2022.

    A wave of drought in the 1990s intensified the rural exodus from inland Tunisia to the coast. ’This coastal explosion has been accompanied by a development model that looked to globalization rather than domestic needs,’ Mounir Hassine from FTDES explains. ’Our region has been at the heart of so-called vulnerable investments, which bring in cheap labor without considering environmental needs and rights.’

    This sudden increase in residents has put greater pressure on the region’s natural water resources, ‘which supply only 50% of our water needs,’ he adds. The remaining 50 percent comes from the increasingly empty northern Oued Nebhana and Oued Medjerda dams. However, much of the water resources are not used for household needs but for industrial purposes.

    According to the ASF report, export companies draw their water partly from the public drinking water network (SONEDE). But the primary source is wells that draw water directly from the water table: ’Although the water code regulates the use of wells, 70% of the water used by the textile industry comes from the region’s unauthorized groundwater’. ’Most wells are dug inside the factories,’ Mounir Hassine from FTDES confirms.

    Due to the current drought wave and mismanagement of resources, Tunisia is now in water poverty, with an average use of 450 cubic meters of water per citizen (the poverty line is 500), according to 2021 data. Moreover, the Regional Agricultural Commission figures show that the water level in Monastir’s aquifers falls between three and four meters yearly.

    Water mismanagement is not just a problem in the textile industry. This type of production, however, is highly water-hungry, especially when it comes to the denim washing process.

    Even if the big brands are at the top of the production chain that ends on the coast of Ksibet El Medeiouni, ‘ they will rarely be held accountable for the social and environmental damage they leave behind,’ admits an entrepreneur in the sector working in subcontracting. Tunisian companies all work for several brands at the same time, and they don’t carry the same name as the big brands, which outsource production.

    ‘Tracing the chain of responsibility is complicated, if not impossible,’ confirms Adel Tekaya, President of UTICA #Monastir.

    The EU wants to produce more green but continues to relocate South

    Once taken directly from the aquifer or from the public drinking water company, SONEDE, a part of the waters polluted by chemical processes, thus ends up in the sea without being filtered. According to scholars, textile dyeing is responsible for the presence of 72 toxic chemicals in water, 30 of which cannot be eliminated.

    According to the World Bank, between 17% and 20% of industrial water pollution worldwide is due to the dyeing and finishing processes used in the textile industry. A figure confirmed by the European Parliament states:

    “Textile production is estimated to be responsible for around 20% of global clean water pollution from dyeing and finishing products".

    The EU has set itself the target of achieving good environmental status in the marine environment by 2025 by applying the Marine Strategy Framework Directive. Still, several polluting sectors continue to relocate their production to the Southern countries, where ‘there are fewer controls and costs,’ explains the entrepreneur requesting anonymity for fear of consequences for criticizing a ’central sector’ in the country.

    But pollution knows no borders in the Mediterranean. 87% of the Mediterranean Sea remains contaminated by chemical pollutants, according to the first map published by the European Environment Agency (EEA), based on samples taken from 1,541 sites.

    The environmental damage of the textile industry - considered one of ‘the most polluting sectors on the planet’ - was also addressed at Cop27 in Sharm El-Sheikh, where a series of social and climate objectives concerning greater collaboration between the EU and the MENA region were listed.

    One of the main topics was the urgent harmonization of environmental standards in the framework of the installation of digital product passports’, a tool that will track the origin of all materials and components used in the manufacturing process.

    FTTH ensures that large companies on the Monastir coast have invested in a closed water re-use cycle to avoid pollution. ‘All companies must invest in a closed loop that allows water reuse,’ Mounir Hassine reiterates.

    But to invest in expensive and reconversion work requires a long-term vision, which not all companies have. After a period of ten years, companies can no longer benefit from the tax advantages guaranteed by Tunisian investment law. ‘Then they relocate elsewhere or reopen under another name,’ Mounir Hassine adds.
    Environmental and health damages of marine pollution

    Despite the damage, only female workers walking around in white or colored uniforms at the end of the working day prove that the working-class towns south of Monastir constitute the most important manufacturing hub of Made In Tunisia clothes production. The sector employs 170,000 workers in the country.

    Tunisia is the ninth-largest exporter of clothing from the EU, after Cambodia, according to a study by the Textile Technical Centre in 2022. More than 1,530 companies are officially located there, representing 31% of the national fabric. 82% of this production is exported mainly to France, Italy, Belgium, Germany, and Spain.

    Some women sit eating lunch not far from warehouses on which signs ending in -tex. Few dare to speak; one of them mentions health problems from exposure to chemicals. ’We have received complaints about health problems caused by the treatment and coloring of jeans,’ confirms FGTHCC-UGTT (Textile, Clothing, Footwear and Leather Federation) general secretary Habib Hzemi. Studies have also shown that textile workers – particularly in the denim industry – have a greater risk of skin and eye irritation, respiratory diseases, and cancer.

    Pollution, however, affects not only the textile workers but the entire community of Ksibet. ’We do not know what is in the seawater, and many of us prefer not to know. We have tried to get laboratory tests, but they are very expensive,’ explains Fatma Ben Amor of the APEK Association.

    According to an opinion poll by the Association for the Protection of the Environment of Ksibet Mediouni (APEK) in July 2016, the cancer rate is 4.3%. Among the highest rates worldwide,’ explains a study on cancer in Ksibet for the German Heinrich Böll Stiftung. Different carcinogenic diseases have been reported in the local community, but a cancer register has never been set up.

    Pollutants from the textile industry have impacted marine life too. Like all towns on the coast, Monastir is known for fishing bluefish, sea bream, cod, and other Mediterranean species. But artisanal fishing is increasingly complicated in front of the bay of Ksibet El Mediouni, and the sector has become entirely industrialized. Thus, the town’s small port is deserted.

    ’The port of Ksibet is emptying out, while the ports of Sayeda and Teboulba, beyond the bay, are still working. There are only a few small-scale fishermen left. We used to walk into the water to catch octopuses with our hands,’ one of the port laborers explains anonymously, walking on the Bay.

    ’Thirty years ago, this was a nursery for many Mediterranean species due to the shallow waters. Now, nothing is left,’ he adds. As confirmed by several fishermen in the area, the population has witnessed several fish deaths, most recently in 2020.

    ’We sucked up the algae, waste, and chemical waste a few years ago for maintenance work,’ explains the port laborer. ’Once we cleaned it up, the sea breathed again. For a few days, we saw fish again that we had not seen for years. Then the quicksand swallowed them up again.’

    https://inkyfada.com/en/2023/11/03/marine-pollution-jean-industry-tunisia

    #pollution #jeans #mode #Tunisie #mer #textile #industrie_textile #environnement #eau #pollution_marine

  • Prijelaz / #The_Passage — dedicated to our fallen comrades

    Od 14. do 21. svibnja 2021. godine u galeriji Živi Atelje DK u Zagrebu predstavljeno je spomen-platno Prijelaz / The Passage. Prijelaz / The Passage je zbirka memorijalnih portreta izrađenih od crvenog i crnog konca na botanički obojanoj tkanini koji su nastali u okviru umjetničkih istraživačkih radionica koje je osmislila i kurirala selma banich u suradnji s Marijanom Hameršak, a na kojima su sudjelovale umjetnice, znanstvenice, prevoditeljice i druge članice kolektiva Žene ženama i znanstveno-istraživačkog projekta ERIM.

    https://erim.ief.hr/en/publikacije/prijelaz-the-passage

    –-

    THE PASSAGE — dedicated to our fallen comrades

    #Selma_Banich and #Marijana_Hameršak in collaboration with Women to Women collective

    Živi Atelje DK, Zagreb, 2021

    https://selmabanich.org/index#/the-passage
    #portraits #art_et_politique #migrations #réfugiés #asile #décès #mourir_aux_frontières #morts_aux_frontières #commémoration #mémoire #textile #Balkans #route_des_Balkans

  • Human Material Loop sets out to commercialise textiles made from hair
    https://www.dezeen.com/2023/11/28/human-material-loop-textiles-from-hair

    Dutch company Human Material Loop is using an unusual waste source to make a zero-carbon wool alternative that requires no land or water use: human hair.

    People’s discomfort around the use of human hair is said to fade when they see the fabric

    #tissus #cheveux

    • ça me parait pas mal. récupérer tel ou tel morceau pour ne pas gâcher l’entièreté des corps d’exterminés ou ne pas négliger d’éventuels usages des déchets déjà produits par des vivants, c’est la nuit (et brouillard) et le jour. voilà des matériaux organiques de qualité qui n’auront pas à être produits.

      + Hypoallergenic by nature
      + Cruelty free
      + 100% natural
      + Fully traceable
      + Value from waste

      https://humanmaterialloop.com
      je m’attendais à trouver des tarifs élevés, or ils sollicitent des dons...

      #cheveux #textile

    • Par contre on traduit un peu vite « hair » par « cheveux » alors que ça veut aussi dire « poils ». Et là, quand on pense à certains barbus d’ici et d’ailleurs, ça donne moins envie.

    • la laine c’est pas mal, ça permet aussi de vivre avec des animaux utiles pour plein de choses Les montagnes se sont vidées parce que les tracteurs tombent dans les pentes et le cheval de trait est loin. les ronces reprennent leurs droits et la forêt gagne. Mes cheveux ne feront pas l’isolation de mon toit, alors que les moutons si en plus, merci, d’empêcher les chasseurs de venir dans des forêts qui n’existent pas !
      Des fois je pige pas.
      #brouteuse

    • mais c’est pas ou bien des moutons et des chèvres ou bien des pilosités humaines devenues inutiles, pourquoi pas les deux et moins de plastique ?

      si on prend leur pub au mot, récupérer un tiers des cheveux jetés en Europe, c’est déjà une bonne manière de produire moins (sous réserve que la récup ne nécessite pas beaucoup plus de travail et d’énergie que mettons du #plastique Shein)


      edit regardant à nouveau le chiffre, je crois que c’est inévitablement un produit de niche rare et cher, que ça vaut moins que le #recyclage des tissus déjà gaspillés dans la fringue

    • @arno une très ancienne tradition d’usage du cheveux persiste dans le métier de posticheur, pour les personnes sous chimio ou le spectacle et jusqu’à très récemment pour la calvitie.
      Mon arrière grand père était posticheur et ma mère possède toujours sa poupée d’enfance avec de vrais cheveux (c’était bien souvent le cas avant l’apparition du synthétique).
      J’ai moi-même fabriqué un masque de « bête » pour un spectacle. Pour l’aspect dru, j’avais le choix entre le poil de yack ou le cheveu d’Indonésienne. Pour une question de budget j’ai choisi le premier.

  • Notepad++ Marks 20th Anniversary with New Release
    https://www.omgubuntu.co.uk/2023/11/notepad-plus-plus-20th-anniversary-update

    The open-source text editor Notepad++ is celebrating its 20th anniversary with a new release filled with some neat new features. In Notepad++ 8.6 (the 238th release since 2003, for those keeping count) the Windows-based code tool adds to its extensive feature set with an improved multi-edit feature. Now, I’m not a developer. I dip into a bit of basic PHP for the omg! sites on occasion, but it doesn’t require a bespoke coding environment. I don’t know how this feature adds to or adjust what was (apparently) available in earlier versions of the app. A few 3rd-party plugins for Notepad++ […] You’re reading Notepad++ Marks 20th Anniversary with New Release, a blog post from OMG! Ubuntu. Do not reproduce elsewhere without (...)

    #News #App_Updates #notepad++ #texteditor

    • Il est déconseillé de l’utiliser pour les grands paragraphes car cela peut entraîner une perte de performance, le navigateur ayant besoin d’effectuer plus de calculs que d’habitude.

      En fait c’est plus net encore : text-wrap: balance ne s’applique que sur les paragraphes de six lignes maximum. Ce n’est pas conçu pour maquetter des paragraphes (sa logique même, graphiquement, ne correspond pas à des paragraphes de texte courant), mais des titres et intertitres.